ANDALUCÍA: THE IBERIAN PENINSULA

PEOPLE ENVY ME WHEN I TELL THEM THAT I AM LUCKY I WAKE UP EVERY DAY IN ANDALUCIA - Unknown

Courtesy of BORAQS - we are off to the Iberian Peninsula (Spain & Portugal) - as part of a Continuous Professional Development (CPD) and learning tour. An 8-day whistle-stop tour during which we eventually toured over 6 major cities of Spain and Portugal - with emphasis on its history - especially the Islamic period and eventual conquest & re-conversion to Catholicism.

​Its 2pm Friday 22 May 2026. We've just finished our Jumaa prayer and now off to the airport for our Qatar Airways flight to Madrid via Doha.

It's a long and full flight. We have no choice of seats. But I manage to sweet talk Monica - one of the ground staff checking us in - and she gets us legroom seats on our first sector.

We are tired from the waiting, queuing and the baggage transfer; the good seats help in stretching our limbs and reducing the discomfort. 

The layover at Doha is pleasantly short. Muna sends WhatsApp messages to the children using the airport Wi-Fi. The next flight from Doha to Madrid is a longer one and we do not have the comfort to stretch. The seats are tight and we have to make do. This is economy class - we get what we pay for! I think Qatar Airways is one of the airlines with very tight economy class seats...

Worse still we get poor treatment on the flight from the air staff. There is general suspicion and disdain towards us (maybe because we are Africans - our only crime being that we are African (proudly so!). What wrong have we done? In fact, we should be the unhappy ones! No worries - if anyone has a complex against us - then it is their burden to bear - we are happy and comfortable with ourselves!

​

MADRID

We arrive on time in Madrid and after the immigration processes and baggage claim we meet our guide; Anna Paula … a pleasant elderly and portly woman with impeccable English. She is our guide and leader for our excursions.

“Please be careful of pickpockets, they are very many and very smart too.” She warns us.

She goes ahead and outlines our plan for the day and the logistics at the hotel.

“You will have breakfast at the hotel too,” she reassures us - to our glee & satisfaction.

Our Coach for the whole trip: A brand-new Mercedes Benz

The bus ride to our hotel is through a sparse Capital City seemingly well planned and uncrowded. The landscape is green. The skies are a clear blue. Temperatures are bordering 30 Celsius - yes 30!

Novotel is our hotel for the one night in Madrid (yes! only one night - can you imagine?!) - it is a nice hotel though comfy but rather with tiny rooms.

But before we get off the bus, Paula has another announcement, "Please everyone, do not just leave your luggage un-attended. Not just here in Madrid but everywhere we travel to. There are too many cases of stolen luggage just from the entrance of Hotels!" 

Welcome to Europe! And the way they blame us of being criminals ... surely, who is more criminal?

So, we quickly herd our bags and trunks into a safe room which is locked by one single person - he will be responsible for the safety. He is neither smiling nor too excited with his duty! Everyone is too hungry and tired to care about his disposition. We quickly dump our luggage into the lockable safe room and head towards where the aroma of coffee and pastries emanates from… breakfast👨‍🍳👨‍🍳👨‍🍳 - and this is where Novotel lives up to expectations! A breakfast to match the name.

However, the arrival of 40-plus Africans into the dining hall draws disbelief, stares and inquisitive whispers from the erstwhile Europeans-only patrons.  I am equally surprised by their rather too-white complexions which decries dire need for the sun! I almost feel like shouting, “Bask in the sun guys, it’s free and God-provided and in limitless abundance to all.” But who am I to dictate to them .. they are happy with their lot - so my opinion doesn't really matter.

The big plus 👍--- Breakfast is a sumptuous continental event with a large variety of everything including nuts, fruits, eggs and lots and lots of prohibited-for-us pork products, which Muna and I give a wide berth to. We dig in with gusto - totally ambivalent to the stolen stares from the other guests.

Breakfast at Novotel with my better half - this was the 3rd course. After the trip, I weighed in and I had gained more than 1and half kgs in weight.

Breakfast done in an hour and we are promptly herded onto the bus again for a City Tour. Have I mentioned that this was a whistle-stop trip? No time to take in the experiences or character or spirit of the spaces and cultures and peoples .... but I am in no position of authority to dictate this. The itinerary has been cast in stone (as though divine!) - and no amount of critique or suggestion will change it - so I maintain a studious silence - a rare phenomenon for me - the one who always speaks his mind!

So, Madrid here we come - we are sometimes referred to as hordes of Africans, especially when Kenyans win in athletics (and normally, they sweep the boards) - they are referred to as hordes by the pale men - and that's where the word hordes comes from; just in case you didn't know!

But they can say what they want and we shall do what we want - we are proudly Kenyan and proudly African! We came to see the Iberian Peninsula and that's what we shall do.

Madrid - Justicia

The city of Madrid is well planned and quite clean. Its rather sparse in population - definitely a sign of good planning. There is order - which is generally lacking in our African nations and some Asian nations too. There is something for us to learn here!

There are no matatus. No boda bodas. No side kiosks. No hawkers. There is order and cleanliness. And I must state that this is the case in virtually all Western European cities. They are way ahead of us in this and other matters as well.

And now the real Madrid comes into view. We pass fleetingly next to the world-famous mecca of Football - the Bernabeu Stadium. This is home to Real Madrid - one of the best football teams in the world. Surprisingly, the stadium is bang in the center of town - so there's very little (if any) parking or open spaces around it - unlike other stadia of similar caliber clubs such as Barcelona, Man U, Arsenal, Chelsea etc. The stadium's organic shape sticks out - many of us wow at this sight. A once in a lifetime occurrence for us distant visitors to this land.

An Art Neveau Building converted into modern use: The Headquarters of Banquo de Espana

We now get to the City Centre. This is dominated by old buildings; well preserved and still in use. Europeans take care of their history and heritage, and they spend, time, effort and money to conserve. And it pays off handsomely - 11 to 12 million visitor each year. Compare this with the whole of Kenya - 2.5 million the whole year; with all our mountains, world-class beaches, national parks, the rich culture etc.

The Almudena cathedral next to the Royal Palace in Madrid

We walk past and through the main square and on to the Royal Palace of Madrid which is adorned with statues of Peter and Paul. 

Castles, palaces and cathedrals dominate the squares. The winding narrower streets have shops on the ground level and residentials at upper levels.

Palacio Real de Madrid (Royal Palace of Madrid) viewed from the expansive Plaza de La Armeria

We do lots of walking in the old town of Madrid - and it's really well planned and kept and maintained.

Almudena Cathedral with Twin Bell Towers and Statues of Pedro & Pablo on either sides of the entrance

View into the vast green landscape from the Plaza de La Armeria

After the long walk through the streets of Madrid; we rest in the gardens next to the plaza of the Royal Palace and seep in the environment. Magpies hop along the well maintained and manicured grass lawns.  These black and white birds similar to our Pied Crows are as infamous as the Crow for its pesty behaviour in human habitat. Row upon rows of flowering plants define the streetscape and these are shaded by evergreen Oak and Elm trees. Everything is spin-and-span here - almost clinical!

Despite the lack of sleep from the two long sectors of flights the previous night - the group is happy and upbeat. We've started well - thanks to Anna Paula!

The Bernabeu Stadium - home to Real Madrid; one of the greatest soccer teams in the world!

It's been a long day. We are tired after the walking and sightseeing. We head back to the hotel at around 830pm. The sun is still up! indeed, it is summer so the sun sets late. My African body and mind have not adjusted to this shock upon my circadian rhythm. It will take time. It may never adjust - cos for decades I have known the sun to set between 630 and 7pm; and this will not change overnight!

We soon have to go back to Novotel.

Novotel at 9pm. Totally tired. Deprived of sleep. We slump into bed - exhausted. Tomorrow is another day! 

Madrid is not just old buildings. This is a Post-Modern Building just across the street from Novotel. Notice the taxi and the empty roads. Notice also the cleanliness!

AVILA 

The following morning, we leave early. Breakfast at Novotel is again a welcome sumptuous affair. We dig in. At 830am sharp we have to take the bus to Avila, then Salamanca and on to Porto in Portugal.

As we drive through the countryside - we see cattle dotted in large ranches. Windmills appear in the distance on mountain tops. The rolling hills intercepted rudely by power pylons complete the landscape. An occasional billboard of a black bull larger than life by at least 10 times reminds us that we are in the North of Spain which is bull-rearing and bull-fighting country. There have been many efforts to stop this sport by animal rights groups - but Spain and Portugal remain steadfast bastions of Bull-Fighting - and they relish this as a national sport and past-time.

The Rolling Hills and Mountains in Northern Spain. Notice the Olive Groves in the distance. The Iberian Peninsula produces lots of olives, cork, beef, horticulture among other agri-products.

Presently, we pass an expansive solar farm. We are informed that apart from nuclear power, the other main sources are solar and wind power. Green sources! And one of my colleagues reckons, “These people are serious about whatever they do and they do it for the good of society. We cannot say the same for our people and far lesser so for our greedy leaders. For our leaders; once they get the ‘seat’ then it’s their turn to eat till death do us part.”

In Europe, rules are strict and followed to the letter. Drivers of buses must not exceed 2 hours of continuous driving without a break! Carlos, our pilot/driver - adheres to this to the letter. And so, we stop at a service station just outside the historic city of Avila. It's a scenic landscape. Green landscape with hills all-round. The historic city of Avila is to the South with its ancient walls clear from a distance. Within the city; red-tiled roofs stick out above the wall reveling a dense arrangement. We pose for photographs at the metal sign announcing the name next to which is a 4-posted structure upon a small rise. This may have been a lookout post for sentinels to announce invaders during Roman times - more than 20 centuries ago!

The medieval walled city of Avila. This is a UNESCO Heritage site and is inhabited just as it has been for centuries. We didn't get the time to visit it but had a pit-stop just outside the city.

4-posted Roman View Tower outside Avila. Notice that it is erected entirely from locally sourced granite stone with Doric columns complete with a capital

A roadside amenity for pitstops. We had a break here to stretch legs and freshen up. Note the gorgeous weather

Granite Balustrades & Baluster at the Roadside Station in Avila

Enjoying the Health Break at Avila

Across the highway are the distinct remains of a Roman-built aqueduct crossing the river. The Romans opened up almost the entire Europe with infra-structures similar to these which enabled them to conquer, rule and control the expansive empire. We will yet get more of similar structures in our tour in several locations.

A Roman Aqueduct near Avila. This Aqueduct is still in use several centuries after it was built .. now it is clear why the Romans conquered the world as they did!

Next stop - Salamanca - the Golden City

SALAMANCA

Salamanca - to the North of Avila and Madrid is proudly referred to as the golden city of the Iberian Peninsula due to the yellow golden sandstone which is the main building material.

This is also a university city - with one of the oldest Universities in Europe - in fact it is the second oldest after the University in Bolognia. The University is also famous for its symbol of a frog which somehow symbolises the need to live a righteous life (I don't know how - these Iberians are weird!). 

As we enter Salamanca, we cross the large Tormes River over a modernish bridge - next to which is an old Roman bridge which has stood firm for centuries and nowadays used as a pedestrian bridge and a tourist attraction. The bus drops us at a public parking lot - and we now start our foot trek of Salamanca.

The Main Cathedral of Salamanca dominates the view as one enters this ancient City

This takes us through narrow winding streets that lead us to an ancient Cathedral which has a majestic Gothic entrance with ornate carvings. The entire structure and indeed most of ancient Salamanca is constructed using the locally available Yellow Golden Sandstone - and hence the name the Golden City.

Narrow street leading to the main Plaza

Narrow Streets in Salamanca. The yellowish sandstone is the main building materials over the centuries and thus giving it the characteristic 'golden' look' and thus the name Golden City

Soon its lunch time. We are shepherded into the basement of a restaurant. Here, in a narrow hallway-like space some 40 chairs have been arranged abreast 3 long tables. Lunch is served. There is no choice. You either choose pork or fish! Before we left Kenya, we were told that the Iberian Peninsula is famous for its culinary tasty foods.

Lunch in the basement.

    

What a disappointment - it's not even halfway as tasty as the foods we eat here in Kenya - let alone the gourmet Indian, Arabic or Asian cuisines --- and more so, at a fraction of the price. We down our food quietly without complaint - we are in foreign land so no complaints -- plus whatever God provides for sustenance must not be looked down upon ... it's just that the hype is nowhere justified. Though I must say their breads were tasty and a good variety too. And all freshly baked - hot from the oven with sprinkles of simsim

Lunch sorted; we now head to the main attractions - the double cathedrals and the second oldest University in Europe - but all these via the Main Plaza in the centre of the Town .... this is almost a constant in most European cities.

University Building in Salamanca. Notice how the 'boring' stone facade has been 'broken' with crab-shell motifs to 'scale' the height. Notice also the lattice covered bay-windows - an Islamic feature introduced into a leaning institute. Throughout Spain and Portugal, the legacy of the 7-centuries Muslim rule remains engrained in their culture art, music, dance, architecture and all other aspects and culture!

In one of the ancient university's buildings, we come across a cloistered courtyard dominated by the Salamanca arch, the curtained arch. In the Centre of the courtyard is a water-well - a constant borrowed from the Islamic world - for all courtyard highlighting the importance of this facility is every society.

The Cloistered Courtyard in one of the faculty buildings with the unique 'curtain' arch. In the centre of the courtyard is a well for drinking water. The geometry, the well, the arches all being borrowed from Islamic architecture. The short Doric columns are from the Roman & Greek (the Hellenic and Hellenistic) era. Also note the spouts of water project from the roof eaves - again a Middle Eastern feature. Incidentally, this is the only example of a curtain arch all over the world!

After the brief tour of the University buildings (only from the outside) - we head to the main stop. The unique double Cathedral of Salamanca. This is effectively 2 cathedrals merged into one. A much older cathedral adjacent to which a newer Renaissance one has been erected. Both are architectural beauties with unique features, fluted & webbed ceilings, arched cloisters erected in accordance with the architectural language of its era.

Ornate Ceiling along a side cloister

The highly decorated Stone carved Entrance into the cathedral

One of the Cloisters. The tall height enhances the wow factor

Apart from the usual function of a cathedral; these European cathedrals are also resting places for various noble families. Their tombs are laid out in designated locations on the floors of the cathedrals. Only the rich could afford this privilege. So in several locations we walked upon calligraphy engraved onto the floor - upon asking we were informed this is where the nobles are buried.

The largest Medieval Organ in Europe

The cathedrals also house private chapels - again the domain of those who can afford this luxury. I must say it - "Ubaguzi haikuanzia kwetu!"

One of the private chapels - grilled off from others!

The Choir Area complete with an ancient Hymnbook

Enough of Cathedrals and Private Chapels with restricted entries! The afternoon is well advanced. We have to still head to Portugal.

We drive out of Salamanca - but not before taking one last glimpse at the Roman Bridge over River Tomes.

Centuries Old Roman Bridge

Note the Simple Stonework Construction

We now have to head to Porto for that’s where we shall be spending the night and a tour of the old city the following day.

The landscape is now decidedly hillier in fact mountainous. White storks which are a protected bird in most of Europe, are busy nesting and feeding nestlings. Their nests are in the most unlikely locations including electric pylons, church bell towers and even atop communications masts. These noble birds migrate thousands of miles down into Africa every year and return to their birthplace with genius directional skill - one of many miracles of God! “Then which of the favours of God will you deny?”

Heading into Portugal

As we drive in Portugal; most of us are dozing. Exhaustion worsened by incomplete sleep. Unfamiliar beds and pillows contribute to this apnea; so, I don't blame my mostly younger brothers and sisters in the bus. The positive: it's a comfy almost brand-new bus Mercedes Benz Bus with reclining seats. But despite the smooth 3-lane highways - the sleep is rather uneven, so I decide to take in the landscape and the views. Hilly with rolling fields - some farmed and some undeveloped ... I could be forgiven to think this a forgotten part of Africa - but it is certainly greener than my home - Africa.

It is noticeably less affluent now. 

And Anna Paula proudly announces, "We are now in Portugal!" For she is Portuguese. 

There is no distinct border line or demarcation or border post or any landmark - apart from the notable difference in the now lesser development and poorer infrastructure. 

We drive on as the twilight takes hold of the environment. The sun is setting slowly. And darkness is slowly enveloping the landscape. Most passengers are asleep now.

The landscaping is now distinctly sub-urban and shortly we enter into Porto City - the second largest in Portugal (after Lisboa). Narrow streets and old buildings hug the roads on either side. Its chilly and dreary - this is Europe proper.

PORTO

Presently we arrive at Porto. Everyone is exhausted from lack of sleep and the long walks in Salamanca and the equally long drive into Portugal.

But I cannot help noticing some striking characteristics - so here goes! Judge me not - for I write what I see and what I feel!

I finally feel like I have arrived in Europe - dreary Europe. Orderly, but dreary all the same!

Dreary Street in Porto

Dreary Street 2 - in Porto

Our venue is the Timbre Hotel in the centre of Porto town. 

We off-load our suitcases and luggage from the stowing compartment below the Mercedes Benz Truck - one can almost stand in the stow!

The Timbre Hotel is a fancy down-town hotel with a large reception dominated by a grand Piano. A long reception desk on the left-hand side of the entrance is manned by a single receptionist - he is not happy! Anna Paula asks us to stay put and not approach the reception desk - she will handle him. 

There is palpable dislike of Africans here - I can feel it from the looks we are been given by the hotel staff; not least to say - the receptionist. He is trying as hard as possible not to smile. But he is obliged to serve us because we’ve paid and more so, paid in advance.

Anna Paula announces that she will hand over the keys herself after a painfully longish conversation with the angry receptionist. We are too tired to care. I just want to catch up with sleep (and frankly also get the h**l out of the hotel the soonest - thankfully its only for one night!)

The following morning - a welcome hearty breakfast. What the hotel failed in receiving us yesterday evening - they somewhat make it up in the ample breakfast! And this we give it the due service and justice!

We still have about an hour before departure to sight-see Porto - so Muna and I walk the streets.

An elderly couple are silently walking their dog on the clean pavement as we stroll out of our hotel. The cobbled pavement is clean enough - by African standards.

In one of the disused entrance alcoves of a building, I notice a man who looks like a homeless person .. he is huddled in several layers of blankets. And his belongings are strewn on the floor. He has totally occupied the alcove and he is disheveled. Many years ago, in the UK; I was informed that the homeless in Europe choose to be homeless and it's not circumstantial because there are enough social facilities to feed and house even the poorest in society. Well, I suppose its a free country - and he chooses to be what he is!

I cannot help but notice that the people I passed by on the streets seemed downcast - most of them! Maybe I'm judging them too harshly - I think the lack of sunlight is playing a major roll in this. Well, let them bear their own crosses - I have mine to take care of!

This is also the bastion of Catholic Europe - and Cathedrals and Chapels are well kept and walled off and preserved. The statue of Mary and Baby Jesus adorn many boundary walls in nooks and sometimes upon larger-than-life statues ... a constant reminder that Catholicism spread to the New World (Central, South and North America) not to forget Goa, Flores (Indonesia) and the Philippines - from the shores of these lands. By virtue of these voyages and the spread of the creed - the Catholic Church remains by multiple times the richest institution in the world and by far many times over they own more land than many countries put together.

The Church of Santo Ildefonso - notice the nooks with statues and myriad crosses. This particular style of churches has since early days been largely copied in Latin America and literally pasted in most cities there!

Soon we have to depart with our luggage. Carlos, our driver is struggling to load the many pieces of suitcases - and a few of us volunteer to load up the Coach; least to say to save time!

We ride in the coach to Porto City Centre and are dropped off - for a walk through the city which will eventually take us to the riverbank of River Douro - the large river that divides Porto into two distinct sections - one more modern than the other.

So here are a few snaps of Porto Town ... enjoy!

Hallway of the Porto Railway Station

Railway Station: note the art done in ceramic tiles which adorns the entire hallway

Palacio da Bolsa - a classical building

Marcado Ferreira Borges - Art Neveau Architecture
(a 19th Century Market)

Hilly Street in Old Porto - note the cable trams rails

Quayside Residences facing River Douro

The walkabout through Porto Old City is exactly that. Some beautiful renaissance buildings intermingling with a mixture of Art Neveau style architecture and even many more stone-built traditional Mediterranean styled two, three and 4 storeyed Nineteenth and Twentieth century apartment blocks with commercial outlets on the ground level.

The streets are clean and orderly - there are no informal kiosks nor noisy matatus nor boda bodas. Yes, there is pick-pocketing - but it isn't rampant as muggings in say Nairobi or Kampala or Dar es Salaam.

The traffic flows. In some areas quite heavy - but orderly and silently without cars over-lapping onto pedestrian walkways.

Despite being one of the poorest nations in Europe - Portugal has a far higher GDP per capita than most African nations. Yes, the people are grumpy - but maybe this is because they saw us or maybe they don't bask in the sun enough?!! Wacha wajisort bana!

I almost feel like telling them that we are not here to enslave them (as they did to us) nor are we here to steal their resources (as they did to ours and continue to do so in the name of development, loans, patents, copyrights and fake grants and and and ... ) nor are we here to colonise them (as they did to us) and not at all here to sell our religion to them (as they did to us!) ... I refrain from saying any of this to them because I think their grumpyness will make them deaf, dumb and blind to any remonstrations I may have ... so no need to waste any effort.

But the truth be said - they care for their nation and their lands - and for that - Hats Off .... 👏🏾

They even follow their religion honestly and with the seriousness it deserves. Kudos for this as well. 

They do not have the 'miracle-healing' religions and the 'plant-a-mustard-seed' religions we have in Africa in every corner - and where your being rich or poor is foretold and determined by how much you can donate in a mosque or at the pulpit! That is, in case you are middle-income. And the only way to riches is either by being a politician or stealing or drugs .... otherwise, you remain like most of us - hand to mouth and middle income! Happily so though!

At the Quayside - waiting for the ferry to take us across!

Next - the quay along River Douro - we are to cross the river in a sight-seeing ferry-cum-boat to the newer section of Porto. That's where we shall have lunch and also visit a refurbished warehouse converted into a museum and also board the bus to head to Lisboa later today.

Yes indeed! No rest for us 'very young' sightseeing professionals!

The boat ride is a restful affair - we can finally sit and breathe and take in the scenery of the two unique sides of Porto.

Part of the team in the ferry - enjoying the boat ride and the views on either side of Porto

The cruise along River Douro upto near where it pours into the Atlantic Ocean is a relaxing boat ride. With the wind and sightseeing - we take in a much-needed breather. The highlight of this boat ride are the magnificent bridge across the river. One a steel structure design by Mr Eifel and the other a modern concrete structure - both beautiful sights to behold and engineering masterpieces!

The Old Bridge across - designed by Mr Eifel 

Modern Concrete Bridge

Once across the River Douro we take a short walk uphill to a refurbishment project. From and ancient warehouse into a museum in honour of cork. Yes - cork, the ones used to open and close bottle of wine and other drinks.

Gable of the Old Warehouse - converted into a museum of Cork

Portugal is the largest producer of cork in the world, and this is one of its main exports.

Entrance Lobby of the Museum

Note the Stone Construction - no concrete frames!

The Reception of the Museum

Lunch is in a fancy restaurant - not too far off from the Museum. Let me not rub it in, but it wasn't to par - both in quality and quantity. Maybe we should have just been eating one meal a day - breakfast; they excelled in this!

The much-hyped 'gourmet' meal across the River in Porto - judge for yourself!

LISBON

Soon its time to depart - Lisbon awaits!

After a longish coach ride from Porto; we drive into Lisbon at almost sunset.

Lisbon (or Lisboa as known locally) is the largest city in Portugal and the capital. It faces the Atlantic Ocean and is divided into two by River Tagus. 

Today we are too tired to think about anything. So once in the Hotel Crowne Plaza - we quickly take our key to the room and retire to sleep. No dinner. It isn't part of the itinerary - so it didnt matter whether we were hungry or not! The exhaustion took precedence!

Before I can critique the staff or the room - I am in seventh heaven!

The following morning is Eid-ul-Adha - one of the holiest days in the Islamic calendar!. But there is no sign of this in Lisboa. There are no Muslims in this part of town. But presently, a group of 3 Muslim men arrive at the dining hall where we are sampling breakfast. We exchange Eid greetings then back to the important task of loading calories.

Our last meal was the mean portions of the 'gourmet' meal in Porto - served with water ("if you want any special drink, please pay for it in advance" - that was warning we had been given by the hotel chef in a not very smiling way). So, the buffet breakfast at Crowne Plaza in Lisboa is a massive blessing. And I dig in - after all it is Eid ul Adha!

Muna & I reminisce how much we miss our family. Eid is supposed to be celebrated with family and loved ones - and we miss them. I am sure they miss us too. We live in extended families; our family ties are strong. In many instances; uncles are referred to 'Baba Mdogo" .. this is the way most of Africa is - and it works for us.

Today is another busy day. A trip around Lisboa including the Belem Tower and the Vasco Da Gama (or rather the Explorers) Monument.

So once breakfast is done; we head for a walk - for Muna and I were the earlier ones and we still have about half an hour before boarding the coach - out of the hotel and into Lisboa.

The Crowne Plaza Hotel - with Golf Couse in the foreground

The Hotel is pleasantly designed around a 4- or 5-hole Golf Course. and it has paved walkways around the greens. It's a beautiful and soothing to walk. In the distance I can see the Atlantic Ocean beyond the old Lisboa. Reminds me of Freetown in Sierra Leone many years ago - when I sat on the beaches of the Atlantic Ocean and reminisced about how Africans were shackled and taken across in dungeons of the ship holds to work the tobacco, sugar cane and cotton plantations in the Americas - never to return! A scar upon humanity which may never be erased!

The walk is pleasant amongst the beautiful Elm trees. The weather is gorgeous - so out go the thoughts of Atlantic and its infamous history.

We return to the Hotel lobby just in time to board the coach - to move on.

Across the long bridge over River Tagus and into Lisboa town proper. This is just another usual European city - albeit less prosperous and thus more humble - in my opinion. Lisboa is more famous for its history rather than its present - apart from the famous copy of the Golden Gate Bridge and its engineering marvel (which we went to view) - and the second very long bridge over River Tagus as it joins the Atlantic - rather unceremoniously.

A classical Baroque Building in Old Lisboa

Belem Tower

The Coach ride terminates at the Belem Tower & the monument in honour of the Explorers- from where the Medieval Portuguese could see-off the explorers who went in search of spices (and lands to colonise and steal resources) to the East & West Indies.  This is a national monument - justifiably, because without them the Iberian Peninsula would be just another nonchalant country with nothing to shout about!

Here are some snaps of Lisboa and its features we visited ... enjoy!

The Monument in memory and honour of the 
Explorers

The Crypt of Vasco Da Gama

Gateway to Lisboa

Evening is drawing - we have to move on. Yes, no rest please! You paid for this! We have an evening date at one of the local restaurants. Again, the much-hyped gourmet meal with limited choice. This was topped with sampling of FADO music - this is traditional folk love songs usually sung solo by a lady. A restful evening. About the food? Well, less said the better! The FADO music - it was OKish ... the vocals were good; the instruments were also well played!

Narrow Street in Old Lisboa - note the preps
for a carnival

Outside belem Tower

A small version of Christ the redeemer!

Around 10pm we are herded into the coach - back to the Crowne Hotel; one of the few times we spent two nights in one hotel.

The following day we have another journey - so better try and get good sleep..

Our next destination, the coastal city of Lagos (no, not the Nigerian city - but the Portuguese Lagos!) 

We drive through the monotonous gently rolling hillside of the Portuguese rural landscape. Farmlands dominate the scene. Many farms are fallow - maybe it isn't planting season. But Cork trees dominate the scenery. These ancient trees are distinct in shape and foliage with thick trunks and sparse foliage. Cork is harvested from the bark!

The Atlantic Ocean plays hide and seek with the highway - its vastness disappearing beyond the horizon. 

Soon we drive slowly downhill towards the ocean - and a typical Mediterranean style town appears - this is Lagos.

We drive through the suburbs along winding streets adorned on either side by adobe residences in variegated colours - typical to these lands.

There are Minaret-like structures on all houses. A remnant of the Islamic history of the region. These no longer serve any functional purpose but are a ‘carry-forward’ imitation of lost glory. In spite of the conqueror's best efforts - the Islamic heritage can just not be wished away - in almost all aspects of Iberian life!

LAGOS

Lagos is a small town upon the Atlantic Coast with the beach side dominated by a busy corniche. Today there is an informal market set up on temporary structures. These are run mostly be Gypsies and Eastern European migrants trying to make ends meet. 

We drive on to our Hotel as darkness descends on the landscape.

We arrive at Hotel Villa Galé. This shall be our stopover for one night. A tall Portuguese receptionist talks animatedly and almost angrily at Anna our guide and leader. He is casting looks in the direction of our group of 40 odd Africans - almost suggesting we may be in the wrong hotel and maybe in the wrong country! The dislike for us Africans is palpable and unfortunately only too obvious. But I suppose he has no choice. Reminder: we paid in advance and woe into him; they have to accommodate us!

Muna and I are given room 3026, the room with the best view of the Atlantic. We settle down quickly for we also want to sample the town Centre with its narrow streets. And as per her routine she has to have her coffee, her caffeine fix!

The town center is small with a few winding narrow streets lined by traditional Mediterranean style double storeyed buildings adorned by balconies and decorations of varying styles including Gothic, Art Neveau and some Baroque. The streets are busy with tourists and locals. Shopping, dining and drinking! Many shady characters are visible; my thoughts race - “Are these the pickpockets?” I clutch my shoulder bag… I dare not lose my passport in this land and peoples who don’t like me or my people.

Aeriel view of Lagos

We took a cab to the town centre - which by the way was dominated by British tourists. Apart from the walkabout in the narrow ancient streets - there isn't much more to see. So, we head back to the Hotel to rest and maybe sample the generous balcony my room had - facing the Atlantic Ocean.

Traditional Styled Building on the Corniche facing the Ocean

I feel one of the not-too-positive aspects of this whistle-stop trip was the poor meal planning! Many times, lunch was arranged and most times we had to sort ourselves for dinner - today was one of those days. So a quick stop at the Hotel Villa Gale Cafe - and a big mistake!

The food or snacks are not only over-priced by our standards but also mean in portion size and the service is poor and much more so for us foreigners from the Third World ... let me not go there! I remain proud of where I come from!

I avoid the snack. Muna has to have something to cure the hunger pangs. I shall wait it out till breakfast! And we head to our room and me straight to the balcony.

Sunrise from our balcony

In the balcony; I breathe in the cool breeze - and savour the moments as the sun sets - finally!

A waxing half-moon is casting beautiful moon light upon a serene Atlantic Ocean. The Ocean that beholds the destiny of these ancient lands and peoples. The Ocean that has totally shaped the Iberian Peninsula’s past and certainly its future.

A distant caw of a nestling Seagull emerges from seaside overgrowths. It’s too late for this. Maybe it’s a call to a late mate or a lullaby to cranky nestlings. 

The constellations have risen but are hazy and unidentifiable. The constellation of Cassiopia and Bootes should be overhead but it’s not discernible. On a clear sky night, the red giant star named Arcturus should be visible, but I am not in luck for these blessings today! ☺️

The following morning - we descend onto the dining room. This is an expansive room with at least 4 sections of buffet arranged. I am hungry and I shall do the needful for the missed meals over the last 18 hours or so.

Spain and Portugal did not disappoint in breakfast - AT ALL! These are the meals I look forward to throughout the trip and enjoyed thoroughly.

We have to load the coach soon after and head to the next stop - the idyllic town of Sines and back to Spain.

SINES

As we head out of Lagos, the infrastructure and developments become gently sparser! We are in countryside Portugal.

This is dry, mostly rural land - dotted with beef cattle ranches. An occasional sunflower farm - resplendently yellow in full bloom - breaks the monotony. Ancient power lines stand sentinel … a reminder of their witness of passing time. The galvanised steel trusses of the pylons are now browning with age. If objects could speak then these sentinels would condemn humankind to the gallows - for the ways humans have treated one another and for the way they have 'raped' their mother Earth! But God is merciful and gracious so this shall not happen; only on the day of judgement all accounts shall be settled - IN FULL!

We soon arrive at the small, dry and hot town of Sines - which sits abreast a beautiful bay on the shores of the Atlantic.

The Calm Bay of Sines

This is the birthplace of Vasco Da Gama (VDG) - by the way he is a major hero in Portugal - and why not!

It's due to him that Portugal - a tiny backward country in medieval Europe rose to become a world power with influence equal to Empires such as the British, French, Spain and Germany ...!

No wonder he enjoys the massive status the Nation accords him - despite his achievements being more the 6 centuries ago.

Our coach parked away comfortable in a shaded nook; we walk along the shore of the calm bay that defines Sines. The Atlantic is beautiful and I cannot help but think what VDG and his cronies must have been thinking every time they woke up and looked at the ocean - thinking what's beyond this at the other part of this world!

We are headed to the approximate location where Mr VDG was born. A fort facing the Atlantic - this fort was then the template for several forts the Portuguese built along the coast of East Africa all the way to Goa and eventually to Indonesia. Fort Jesus in Mombasa and other similar forts in Kilwa, Goa and Indonesia are all based on a similar design.

The Fort reputed to be VDG's birthplace

The fort is bare. Most of the internal quarters have over the centuries fallen or been mowed down by the sickle of time. The only remaining section is a small chapel and Roman living section - which has now been converted into a museum with a few artifacts and a map/plan of what the Fort had been! Outside the fort; a larger-than-life statue of Mr VDG adorns - watching over the Atlantic - one of the two major Oceans he conquered! He stands next to the small cathedral - where he was probably christened!

Anna taking a a stroll at the Fort

Mr VDG himself!

Sines is a sleepy little town ... our walk-about is brief and over within 2hours. We must now head for lunch (a gourment lunch!) at one of the local restaurants - with the promise of something special!

Surprise, surprise! By now I am used to the lunches ... less said, the better! Its a strictly vegetarian lunch at a local restaurant. Again, we are reminded loudly; water is free, but any other drink must be paid for in advance please!

A beautiful small chapel in Sines

Lunch done and we head back out of Sines and head back into Spain. There isn’t a marked difference in landscape or any border markings or concrete wall or fencing - other than a subtle change in wealth and status. There just seems more order and affluence in Spain! Maybe because Spain is several times larger and more populous. 

The road trip now passes through beautiful groves of Olive Trees - mile upon mile of these!

Our journey is now in its last two stages. The city of Sevilla and finally - Granada where we shall spend a night, a tour and on to Madrid to fly back home.

SEVILLA

We drive through Southern Spain on the last leg. A quick pit-stop at one of the road-side service stations along the highway. The beauty of most of these stations 

are the bathroom facilities and the reasonably priced bitings - unlike in Kenya where anything we buy from the roadside Service station is not less than one and half to 3 times the usual price. The bathroom facilities are large and clean and adequate for the large numbers of visitors who would come in buses - so hundreds of people at a go!

Sevilla is an ancient city with a mixture of old renaissance buildings and several older buildings with Islamic features - remnants of the Glorious Islamic era which lasted over 7 centuries. So, it's not uncommon to see buildings with Islamic Arched entrances but topped with Church bells and Catholic icons.

A Cathedral Entrance building upon an ancient Islamic Architecture entrance.
Note the Islamic Arch and the superimposed bells and baroque features added after the conquest by the Conquerors - examples of these types of additions and alteration abound throughout most of Spain- for 7 centuries is not a short period in history..

We walk some of the narrow streets and the main square and take in the different types of medieval architecture as well the mixture of the Islamic with the Catholic features.

Below is the photo gallery of some of the areas we walked in Sevilla - enjoy!

Narrow Street in Sevilla

A Gothic Church in the centre of Sevilla

Islamic Arched Entrance with Arabic Inscriptions

Gothic Church Entrance

Modern Expo Centre in Sevilla

Islamic Era Decorations retained in one of the Historic Buildings

A Mosque Minaret converted into a Church Tower Note the difference in architectural style of the top and lower minaret structure- the early Christian rulers tried to retain some of the arts and architecture - it was during the Inquisition that deliberate efforts were made to totally erase all signs of Islam from the Iberian Peninsula (miserably unsuccessfuly)!

Another Gothic Entrance

The sightseeing of Sevilla is short because we still have a long drive through Spanish South to Granada - our final city stop.

GRANADA

Earnest Hemingway once said, "If you are to visit just one place in the Iberian Peninsula, then it should be Granada."

As we drive towards Granada; the distant snow-capped mountains become clearer -the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The roadside signs indicate the dwindling kilometres - I am tired. I have tried stretching my legs by standing in the coach and occasionally even sitting on the steps of the bus entrance. I cannot wait to reach Granada and just throw myself into bed. But here we have to partake in our final dinner and also say bye to Anna Paula - for she heads out to other assignments, and we shall be with two different guides tomorrow morning.

The Snow-capped Sierra Nevada Mountains

Our destination is Hotel Grand De Luna. Here dinner has been arranged.

A brief goodbye ceremony is held in honour of Anna Paula and also the celebration of three birthdays - Ken, Cosmas and Arnold - long live guys!

Yours truly - myself is called upon to give a word of Thanks - which I do because I am now full - the buffet dinner was filling and good enough I must say!

Anna Paula giving her word of thanks!

The Hotel rooms are poor and dingy. The bathrooms are ancient but functional. I am too tired to make a serious critique - so this is enough said.

The following morning - we dig into a full breakfast. They know how to treat you for breakfast ... maybe because its buffet ... but do I care? No - I need the energy for the day ahead, so Muna & I dig in!

Soon time to leave for the Alhambra Palace and the nearby Islamic complex ... 

We drive up the hill along a winding narrow asphalt road towards the winter home for the Muslim sultan towards Alhambra. The beautiful Sierra Nevada with snowcapped peaks shine under the glorious glare of morning Iberian sunshine as we drive up towards the winter home for the elite of a long-lost society.

Outside the complex, we meet Maria Reyes - our guide. She is a professional guide and knows this place inside out!

So briefly; Alhambra is divided into 3 distinct districts namely the Military barracks, the sultans palaces and quarters and the workers lines.

Islamic architecture dominates with the onion arches and calligraphy - both poetic and verses from the Holy Quran are sprinkled liberally in strategic locations. Maria Reyes, our guide for the day is well read and informed. “The Muslims ruled this land for 700 good years. And when they were finally conquered, the Catholics chose to retain the Muslim art and architecture. However, a deliberate and intense effort was made to eliminate Islamic religious annotations and symbols wherever possible during the Inquisition.”

To date; Spanish culture, art, society, music, culinary art etc - remains embedded with this long period of Islamic rules and interaction! Maria Reyes also nostalgically points out that upon the departure of the Muslims; the Iberian Peninsula descended back to its dark days and only rose back many centuries and later with the explorers and the rise of the Western Civilisations. But the impact remains and is felt to date!

Below are some pictures and captions of the tour - enjoy!

Alhambra Entrance

One of the Arched Entrances into the Gardens

Pottery with Arabic Inscriptions

An Antic Door with Inscription from the Islamic Era.

A latter-day Water Fountain at the Entrance

One of the Alcoves in the Palace

The Alhambra - Sierra Nevada Mountains in the background

Minaret-like towers of the Alhambra

A cathedral added within the complex after the conquest

At lunch time we have a date at another restaurant. This time in modern Granada - just beyond the main town square. The lunch is the normal bland lunch we've had all along - and in small mean portions! But no worries - I had a good breakfast!

Later in the afternoon, Muna and I join Moses for a tour of the Muslim section of the town - where a mosque is operational and the views to the Alhambra are gorgeous!

Enjoying the sunshine and a break in the operational mosque courtyard - note the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada Mountains in the background

The afternoon is reserved for shopping - finally! We cannot go home empty handed - we are proudly Kenyan - and this is our tradition! So, we descend upon one of the modern shopping malls to sample stuff for our children and grandchildren. Primark, Sephora, M&S and Sketchers - some of the brands we sample - before the purse gets totally depleted!

Back to the hotel, packing for the journey tomorrow - for this is our last night in the Iberian Peninsula.

The morning breakfast is just that - Spanish breakfast - buffet!

Time to load the coach and move on ...

There are miles upon miles of olive farms now. Spain boasts in excess of 60 million olive trees. It is the largest producer of all olive products in the world.

BACK TO MADRID AND NAIROBI

Somehow on the way back I lose all my writings! Disaster! The several hours of writing, the emotions and experiences…ALL GONE! I have to try and remember them. I will do my best to recreate these… but some will unfortunately be lost forever. I shall not lose heart….I have to write and record the experiences whilst I’m still in Spain. So, these writings are a recreation of my experiences, luckily whilst still here in the Iberian Peninsula.

The road winds through hilly territory which halfway later changes into prairie like flat lands with endless plantations of olive trees, vineyards, wheat plantations many of which are under irrigation. An occasional maize plantation sticks out like a sore thumb but green and resplendent; a confirmation of how fertile the land is and so very lucky the peoples of this land are! I hope they are grateful for this.

So, I’ve now become an expert at identifying the different types of plantations not just by the characteristics of the trees and their foliage but also by how far apart the trees are planted. Here goes: olive trees have a distinct thick trunk. The mature ones are a minimum of 35 years and hence the thick trunks. They have a fairly thick foliage of light green grayish leaves. They are planted a minimum of 6m apart. Orange trees have a darker richer green foliage with a substantially small girth of trunk. These are planted some 3m apart. Grapes are small lighter green trees. Planted much closer at almost 1m distances.

Around 12 noon we arrive 40km before Madrid for a quick lunch of Salmon and rice starters topped up by ice cream. Only the ice cream was worth noting - sorry guys; truth must be said!

This done and we head back into the bus onward to Madrid Airport. Head back to Africa, Kenya and Nairobi - where family and friends await! 

Bon voyage!