THE UNSPOILT NORTH & THE SAMBURU 5

AUGUST 2023 

“I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move.”

― Robert Louis Stevenson, Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes

I am on the move again. Travel lust has me hooked. I am not complaining. I think it is my purpose in life; among many other purposes, some probably lesser and others greater.

I am once again headed North to one of my favorite parts of our beautiful Kenya.

Samburu, Shaba, the Laikipia Plateau and the North of Kenya remain the last unspoilt bastions of Kenya.

No wonder white settlers hold on to large swathes and chunks of this very fertile and unspoilt wilderness in the name of conservancies and ranches...a surprise in itself in this day and age of openness and freedom and democracy and all the fancy words used by the Neocolonialists to subjugate, repress and suppress the already downtrodden of the world. There is a God and He is watching!!!

Holywood actresses, directors, Greek billionaires, British and Danish royalties are reputed to be some of the owners of this part of Kenya. The ownerships of these ranches and conservancies are largely and deliberately kept vague and away from the media ... this is the playground of the rich and who-is-who in the world. The lesser mortals must not know about this lest they demand even an iota or fairness. Their glorious ignorance and hand-to-mouth status must be kept just bearable to prevent revolt! 

I am not going to stress myself with this gap between the haves and have-nots. In my case I am but an ordinary Kenyan going about my daily work. I am blessed and happy.

And today my work takes me to an upmarket lodge in Samburu Game Reserve. I'm travelling there to check out work by a prospective Contractor who is pitching to construct the lodge I've designed in the Mara.

We head along the Thika Superhighway in the opposite direction of the traffic. So it is indeed a relaxed drive. A pleasant rarity every Kenyan relishes when he stumbles upon it. 

Hahaha, not all of us can afford choppers or several chase cars with blaring sirens and multiple blue and red strobe lights used effectively to clear roads so that a more-equal-than-us, politically connected individual can get to his meeting with the 'Wenyenchi'

Thika bound, Nyeri bound and Meru bound Nissan matatus overtake us as though we are at standstill. I thought these were supposed to have speed governors restricting their speed to 80kmh! I quickly kill this naive thought. I am in Kenya. I've heard many skeptical people refer to our nation as the land of impunity...this is it. Matatus overtaking private vehicles travelling at 110kmh. Its a discussion that will not end.

My thoughts are quickly derailed by a very loud boda boda who has sawn off his exhaust and is also blaring away very loud music from two large speakers mounted just ahead of his footrests. I can't but notice that the blue cylindrical speakers are 2 feet in height and nearly 6 inches in diameter! They are producing a shrill noise. These could easily sponsor an open-air disco or one of those very common nightly crusades held in many parts of our believing country.

No wonder the din! He is oblivious of the noise and nuisance he is creating. He is obviously high on some illegal substance. Noise pollution is a real problem. The elephant in the room! We are all so oblivious to it. We need to rise up against this.

The boda boda overtakes us at full throttle. I hate to think what would happen to him even if a small incident caught him on the road.

For the record, all our public and some of the cheaper private hospitals have a boda boda ward which is full of patients in varying degrees of injuries. Many may never walk again and many will never work again and be burden to their already impoverished families. Its a sad state of affairs. We need serious civic education on this pandemic that is decimating our able-bodied men. But the politicians whom we expect to lead on the matter dare not say a word lest they lose their jobs .... keep in mind the boda bodas are their many constituents..

But behind this pandemic is an even larger elephant in the room which no one wants to talk about.

Alcoholism and substance abuse!!

In no time the boda boda guy is out of sight. The noise diminishes quickly.

Out of sight and out of mind.

I bring back my thoughts to the road.

The Classic FM 105.2 is blaring away with Mwalimu Kingangi and Mike Mondo. Today they are discussing marriage, birth, pregnancy and baby shower ceremonies. And their frivolity!!!

Its a cloudy day but with the promise of warmth, my spirits are high.

On the other side of the road, the traffic heading towards the CBD is heavy. Cars at a standstill. The faces of the drivers are at different stages of frustration. One of them is picking his nose until he notices some staring eyes and quickly rolls up his tinted window to continue the gory mining of his orifice...may be, who knows!

The topic of the FM station changes to explicit content on TikTok.  After long rather pertinent issues, a parent resolves "Even If i am on a diet, I am allowed to see the menu!"

We approach the outskirts of Thika; the Birmingham of Kenya and you are immediately struck by the sight of the very large and expansive pineapple and fruit plantations owned by well-known multinationals.

These are the multinationals that own very large expanses of land all over the world. In Kenya, reports have it that these prime lands and huge chunks have been leased for 999 years from the early 20th century!

Anything wrong with this...???

Judge for yourself... land acquired at almost no value and leased for a millennium.... where else in the world does this happen other than Africa and Latin America where the citizens and indigenous peoples are 3rd class citizens living in abject poverty and in near slavery conditions.

But the moment you get to the bottom of the acerage of the land and how the land was acquired and at what expense --- of leaving the locals destitutely poor ... then any right-thinking human being will feel bad for the disenfranchised local people.

I am not a leftist nor a communist but I insist there should be fairness, equity and equitable sharing of resources. The poor must be given a fair chance to survive and live a dignified life irrespective of their tribe, religion, creed or colour!

This is a bare minimum every human being deserves -- Not just in Kenya but the world over!

Enough of my socialist views!

The sun is now shining. The harbinger of the warm and hot days ahead. Winter is almost over.

There is talk of El Nino rains. But no signs of this yet.

We need rain. We are a rain fed economy.

El Nino ... well not the destruction that comes with it.. but the rains are welcome indeed.

The water levels of Tana River are low. And this is the largest river in Kenya. It certainly isn't a welcome thought. We are the worst affected by global warming and yet we are the least cause of it by any standards. Uncle Sam, I keep referring to you! I hope you are reading this and if you have any shame or conscience then you would do something about it!

Yup, we need the rains.

Its cloudy and hazy so neither Mt Kenya nor the Nyandaruas are visible....yet!

We drive on at a steady pace up the new dual carriageway which is a welcome break from the erstwhile traffic snarlups.

The uphill meanders of Karatina and  Nyeri are busy as usual. Schools have closed so there is glaring lack of school going children along the roads.

Women and men go about their daily lives. The roadside subsistence farms are being tended mostly by women.

The land is fertile and well watered and forested and here, unlike in Western Kenya; there aren't prominently defined planting or harvesting seasons.

So farming is an alround the year activity.

Soon we turn right towards Kiganjo and onward to Chaka and beyond.

A welcome break. We need to stretch our legs and what better stop than Chaka.

Mt Kenya Safari Halt Hotel

Chicken soup and a samosa.

Kienyeji (free range) chicken soup. And it is tasty and hot.

After the half hour soup-stop, we head North towards Naro Moru, Nanyuki, Isiolo and beyond.

Mt Kenya to the right and the Aberdare Range to left are both shrouded by clouds and haze despite the bright day.

The Equator at Nanyuki

We are on the Equator. The sun is now bearing upon the earth without mercy. Its getting hot....a very different weather from the rather confused and undecided climate of Nairobi.

I am not complaining. Its a welcome break.

And somehow hot weather is associated with holidays, so this is a mini holiday for me. A sabbatical of work and rest. And why not! I have earned my life and I shall harvest all the good and bad that I have sowed over the years.

Its a blessed job and a blessed life I lead. I cannot thank God enough for all the uncountable blessings. Alhamdulillah

The Easterly winds which are the cause of the rain shadow effect at Naro Moru are blowing not too gently and not too hard too..  The dust from the dry Kieni plains is blown along roads and giving all bystanders a dustbath....this is a daily ritual for Naro Moru. The people are so used to it that they don't notice it. It is accepted as part of the life in Naro Moru. In fact its not an issue!

Only a third eye such as you or I would notice this aberration to life.

There is need to plant more trees to break the wind and stop the sheet erosion which depletes the earth of its fertile and valuable top cover which is the most fertile soil for farming. We all have a duty to save our earth; its the only home we have and we owe it to our children and other generations to come.

Who cares? Is anyone listening? I have faith that there are many good and decent human beings out there -- even amongst the neocolonialists (wenye kasumba!)

Sometimes I blame me and the ordinary citizen. We leave too much to be sorted by our politicians. The truth is they don't care. The politicians stopped caring the day after their election to office.  The locals have forgotten all too soon and are too busy making ends meet and struggling to even put food on the table. No time or effort to worry about larger and more distant matters such as this. Its not their fault, for they have been relegated to poverty by the poor policies, corruption and outright robbery... indeed they have been sentenced to a life of servitude; servitude to a system that bleeds and milks it people unto their demise. Welcome to the 3rd World.

Mt Kenya from Timau

We arrive at Isiolo at 1pm. Its very hot but there is a South Easterly wind that gives some recompense to the stuffy heat. Our rendezvous with colleagues is at the Hass Petrol Station and we park in the little shade available.

Our colleagues are busy sampling miraa for the journey. They partake. We term them vegetarians!

Its a free world even if we are in the 3rd World!

Once we link up, our trek North begins again. We aren't too far from the Game Reserve and the lodge we are supposed to inspect and also a nearby one where we shall stay.

                Buffalo Springs Game Reserve, situated in northern Kenya, is a unique and captivating wildlife destination with several distinguishing features: Distinctive Landscape: Buffalo Springs Game Reserve is characterized by its diverse landscape, which includes riverine forests, open savannah, and hills. 

This varied terrain attracts a wide range of wildlife and offers captivating scenery for visitors. Ewaso Nyiro River: The reserve is traversed by the Ewaso Nyiro River, a lifeline for both wildlife and vegetation in the area. The riverbanks are lush and green, providing a stark contrast to the surrounding arid landscape and attracting animals, especially during the dry season.

Wildlife Diversity: Buffalo Springs is home to a variety of wildlife species, including the "Samburu Special Five," which includes the reticulated giraffe, Grevy's zebra, Somali ostrich, gerenuk, and Beisa oryx. These species are unique to this region and offer a special wildlife experience.

Scenic Beauty: The reserve offers stunning vistas with views of Mount Kenya in the distance. The combination of riverine vegetation, open plains, and hills makes for breathtaking scenery.

Cultural Encounters: Like Shaba National Reserve, Buffalo Springs also provides opportunities to engage with the Samburu people. Visitors can experience their culture, interact with the locals, and learn about their traditional way of life.

Off-the-Beaten-Path: Buffalo Springs is a less crowded and more tranquil alternative to some of the more popular Kenyan national parks and reserves. This off-the-beaten-path quality allows for a more intimate and peaceful safari experience.

Birdwatching: The reserve is a birdwatcher's paradise, with a wide variety of avian species that can be observed along the riverbanks and in the surrounding vegetation.

In summary, Buffalo Springs Game Reserve offers a unique combination of stunning landscapes, diverse wildlife, cultural interactions, and a more secluded safari experience. Its location along the Ewaso Nyiro River and its status as one of the "Samburu Special Five" destinations make it a distinctive and memorable wildlife destination in Kenya.

After a drive of about 30 minutes into the game reserve we arrive at one of our destinations.

Ashnil Samburu

The resort is nestled along the Ewaso Nyiro River.

The Ewaso Nyiro River facing Samburu County

A welcome cold drink. I take Iced Tea. It is soothing as it trickles down my parched throat.

Lunch is announced. Tomato soup and 2 small pieces of bread serve as the appetiser. And I request for lamb chops which arrives after 10 minutes. It is delicious and filling. I am grateful.

Lamb Chops with Potatoes

After lunch we drive for 30 minutes to the lodge we are to inspect. It is strategically located upon a long kopje...facing the Ewaso Nyiro River. In the distance we can see elephants grazing and a couple of zebra who have come for a drink at the river.

The Ewaso Nyiro River with Vegetation

We carry out a lengthy but slow inspection of the lodge. It is still new. The landscaping is raw and still immature. The whole feeling is bare. The architecture is well thought out ... for a change but in bare contexts it is hardly exciting. Haileti shangwe..! Time will tell.

After the long walk of the inspection, we head back to our Riverside resort.

I am given room no. 3.

Cosy room but no electricity until 6pm. A stark reminder that we are at least 50km away from the nearest town, albeit a small one.

I head out with the 300mm lens to photo shoot birds. Its my first time to use this lens and hence I'm really a novice.

My 1st Shot with a 300mm Lens - Grey Headed Kingfisher

Von Der Decken's Hornbill

Evening descends fast. An elephant in the distance grazes oblivious of prying eyes of two tourist vehicles. He disappears into a clump of Acacia trees. Good for him!

I retreat to my room for my evening prayers and return to the bonfire circle to wait for dinner time.

Room No. 3

Tomorrow we plan to go for a game drive and I hope to see the Samburu 5 (sometimes also referred to as the Shaba 5) ... the Grevy Zebra, the Gerenuk, the Beisa Oryx, the Reticulated Giraffe and the Somali Ostrich.

At 430am I am up as usual. The alarm that I had set was a plan B in case sleep overtakes me. I don't remember when sleep last overtook me. Age is catching up. Sleep is lesser by the year and lighter of course. So if I manage 5 hours then I am happy.

I shower under the firewood heated water. It has a distinct smell of burnt wood. A refreshing smell. The hot water is refreshing and rejuvenating. 

Prayers said, I recite the Quran. 

At 6am I head to the reception. The tour driver is ready with the Open Land Cruiser converted into a comfortable van ideal for game viewing.

We head into the reserve. Its bone dry. There isn't much sign of animals. In the distance we make out a solitary elephant along the banks of the river. 

The Dry & Bare Landscape

Further beyond we make out the silhouette of reticulated giraffes grazing upon tops of Acacia Nilotica trees. These are endemic to Samburu, Shaba, Buffalo Springs and this conservation area.

Reticulated Giraffe (endemic to North Kenya)

Reticulated Giraffe feeding upon Acacia Tortilis tree

Acacia Tortilis (Umbrella Thorn)

About half an hour into the game drive, our keen eared driver cum guide picks up a cackle of a vervet monkey. I didn't hear it. He did. He immediately noted that that was a serious warning cry of a vervet monkey and that a leopard is about and been spotted by the Vervet. He increases pace towards the cackle which is now louder and nearer. A third cackle gives away the position of the monkey and we head near it.

Within a minute our guide spots the Leopard with a kill. A small Impala. He is dragging the kill into a thicket away from the noise and disturbance that we have generated and the continuous warning cackle from the Vervet. He then disappears into a thicket and cannot be seem any more.

The Leopard with its Prey (it was still not yet daylight)

He wasn't fully grown

After waiting for the Leopard to appear again for over 10 minutes we give up and move on. Onto the plains of Buffalo Springs Game Reserve.

Sand Grouse and Yellow Necked Spur Fowl dart onto and away from the murram tracks as our Land Cruiser trudges along the rutted road.

We chance upon another endemic bird of the North. The Spurwing Plover. Unlike its noisy cousin the Crowned Plover; the Spurwing is a largely silent bird.

The Spurwing Plover

Our guide moves along and near a clump of Acacia tress we chance upon a herd of young elephants, sparing away and some feeding. They look healthy due to the proximity of Ewaso Nyiro River where food is in good supply. 

Herd of Young Elephants

Time is not on our side. We drive on through the plains and make a return for the Lodge. On the way back we chance upon a solitary Grevy's Zebra. This shy beast is critically endangered and efforts are in full gear to protect it.

Grevy's Zebra

Some of the other trees and animals we saw during the drive through Buffalo Springs Game Reserve included:

Acacia nilotica

Sand Grouse

White Headed Buffalo Weaver

White Hooded Sparrow Weaver

Yellow Necked Spurfowl

Spurwing Plover

Helmet Guinea Fowl

Doum Palm or Riverine Palm 🌴

October 2023

SEVERAL WEEKS LATER ..... !!!

I am on the road again - headed North!. This time with my better half and Ayman and Imaan (son and daughter respectively).

This time headed into Shaba Game Reserve.

SHABA SAROVA - Our destination for 2 nights

We arrive safely and promptly for lunch and are welcome by the experienced and friendly Sarova Staff...

A welcome glass of orange juice wets the dried throats of my passengers. Its been a 6 hour drive from Nairobi.

We settle for lunch .... as our luggage is taken to our rooms. Room numbers 9 and 10.

Before we go into the details of my travels here is a scientific and geographical background of Shaba and the surrounding.

Nestled in the eastern part of Kenya, Shaba National Reserve is a hidden gem that often goes unnoticed by travelers. While the Maasai Mara and Amboseli National Park steal the limelight, Shaba quietly beckons those seeking a more serene and unique safari experience. This lesser-known destination promises breathtaking landscapes, wildlife encounters, and cultural richness that will leave you awe-inspired. 

A Natural Wonderland: Shaba National Reserve is a tapestry of diverse landscapes. The Ewaso Nyiro River meanders through the reserve, creating pockets of lush greenery in an otherwise arid environment. These oases attract an array of wildlife, making it a prime location for game drives and bird-watching. The reserve is known for its population of big cats, including lions, leopards, and cheetahs, as well as herds of elephants and buffalos.

The Unique Shaba Five: Shaba is renowned for the "Shaba Five" – a group of animals that can only be found in this region. These species are the reticulated giraffe, the Grevy's zebra, the Somali ostrich, the gerenuk, and the beisa oryx. Seeing these majestic creatures in their natural habitat is a rare and unforgettable experience.

Cultural Encounters: Shaba National Reserve is not just about the wildlife; it also offers an opportunity to immerse yourself in the rich cultural heritage of the Samburu people. You can visit Samburu villages to learn about their traditions, taste their cuisine, and even witness traditional dances. It's a chance to gain insight into a way of life that has remained largely unchanged for centuries.

Adventurous Activities: Beyond game drives, Shaba provides ample opportunities for adventure seekers. Guided nature walks, camel treks, and river rafting are just some of the activities available to make your visit even more exciting.

Luxury in the Wilderness: Shaba boasts a range of accommodation options, from luxurious tented camps to lodges that blend seamlessly with the surroundings. Many of these lodges offer stunning views of the Ewaso Nyiro River and the African savannah, creating an unforgettable setting for your stay.The Road Less Traveled: One of Shaba's most appealing aspects is its relative seclusion. Unlike the crowded safari destinations, you're likely to encounter fewer tourists here, allowing for a more intimate wildlife experience.In conclusion, Shaba National Reserve is a well-kept secret in Kenya, offering a unique blend of wildlife, culture, and adventure in a tranquil and unspoiled environment. If you seek an off-the-beaten-path safari experience, Shaba should undoubtedly be on your travel itinerary. It's a place where nature and culture coexist harmoniously, providing memories to last a lifetime.

Shaba National Reserve is a haven for birdwatchers, offering a diverse array of avian species. Some of the notable bird species you can watch in Shaba include: Somali Ostrich: These large, flightless birds are a unique and striking sight with their blue-grey necks and legs. Vulturine Guineafowl: Known for their striking appearance with bold, cobalt-blue feathers and a distinctive "vulture-like" head, they are commonly seen in Shaba. Secretary Bird: This fascinating bird of prey is easily recognizable with its long legs and a crest of feathers on its head. It's often seen striding through the grasslands searching for prey.Rüppell's Griffon Vulture: Shaba is home to various vulture species, including the Rüppell's Griffon Vulture, which can often be seen soaring in the skies. Verreaux's Eagle: A large and

impressive bird of prey, Verreaux's Eagle can be observed soaring high in the sky or perched on cliffs and trees. Superb Starling: A vibrant and colorful bird, the Superb Starling is known for its iridescent blue and orange plumage. Palm-nut Vulture: This distinctive vulture is often found near water sources and palm trees, where it feeds on palm fruits and aquatic life. Yellow-billed Hornbill: These charismatic birds are easily recognizable by their long, curved beaks and bright yellow faces. African Fish Eagle: With its striking white head and distinctive cry, the African Fish Eagle is a common sight near water bodies in Shaba. Hamerkop: This peculiar-looking bird is easily recognizable by its hammer-shaped head and can often be seen near rivers and lakes. Lilac-breasted Roller: Known for its vibrant plumage, the Lilac-breasted Roller is a favorite among bird enthusiasts for its striking colors. These are just a few examples of the many bird species you can encounter in Shaba National Reserve. The diverse habitats, including riverbanks, woodlands, and open grasslands, make it a prime destination for birdwatching enthusiasts, whether you're an experienced birder or just looking to appreciate the beauty of these winged creatures in their natural environment.

 Shaba National Reserve, known for its striking landscapes and unique wildlife, also features a variety of flora that adds to its natural beauty. Here are some of the notable plant species you can encounter in Shaba: Acacia Trees: Acacia trees are common in Shaba and contribute to the savannah landscape. Their umbrella-shaped canopies provide shade for wildlife and are an iconic feature of the African plains. Doum Palm (Hyphaene coriacea): These tall palm trees are often found along riverbanks and water sources in Shaba. They bear clusters of large, edible fruits and are an important resource for both wildlife and local communities. Sokotei Fruit (Adansonia digitata): Also known as the Baobab tree, this iconic African tree can be spotted in Shaba. The massive trunks of Baobabs store water and provide sustenance to various animals. 

Riverine Vegetation: Along the Ewaso Nyiro River that flows through Shaba, you'll find lush riverine vegetation with species like reeds, papyrus, and various aquatic plants. These attract a range of wildlife, including birds and herbivores.

Grasses and Herbs: The grasslands of Shaba are home to a variety of grasses and herbs, which are essential for herbivorous animals such as zebras, gazelles, and buffalos. These grasses also support the region's unique fauna.

Savannah Shrubs: Various shrubs and bushes are scattered across the landscape, offering shelter and food for a diverse range of wildlife. These include species like the Whistling Thorn and Desert Rose.

Medicinal Plants: The Samburu people, who inhabit the region, have a rich knowledge of medicinal plants found in Shaba. They utilize these plants for traditional medicine and healing practices.

Lush Riverine Vegetation: Near the riverbanks, you can find lush vegetation, including tall grasses, sedges, and water-loving plants. These areas are crucial for both herbivores and birds.The flora in Shaba National Reserve plays a vital role in the ecosystem, providing food, shelter, and sustenance to the diverse wildlife that calls this region home. It also adds to the scenic beauty of the reserve, creating a picturesque backdrop for wildlife safaris and nature enthusiasts.

Shaba National Reserve in Kenya is characterized by a variety of geographical features that contribute to its unique landscape. Some of the prominent geographical features of Shaba include:

Ewaso Nyiro River: The Ewaso Nyiro River runs through Shaba National Reserve, creating a lifeline of water and lush vegetation in the midst of an otherwise arid environment. This river is a focal point for both wildlife and vegetation, attracting animals to its banks.

Shaba Hill: Shaba Hill is a prominent lava outcrop in the reserve, formed from ancient volcanic activity. It adds to the distinctive landscape of the area and is home to various wildlife species.

Acacia Woodlands: Acacia trees and woodlands are a common feature of the Shaba landscape. These trees provide shade and sustenance for wildlife and are an iconic part of the African savannah.

Grasslands: Shaba features extensive grasslands, which are essential for herbivores like zebras, gazelles, and buffalos. These grasslands support a diverse range of wildlife.

Hills and Hillsides: The reserve has hills and hilly terrain that create picturesque backdrops and vantage points for observing wildlife and the surrounding landscape.

Rock Outcrops: You can find rock outcrops and formations throughout Shaba, which are not only visually interesting but also provide shelter for certain wildlife species.

Savannah Shrubs: Various shrubs and bushes are scattered across the landscape, offering shelter and food for a diverse range of wildlife.

Riverine Vegetation: Along the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River, there is lush riverine vegetation with species like reeds, papyrus, and other aquatic plants. These areas are crucial for both herbivores and birds. These geographical features contribute to the diverse and captivating environment of Shaba National Reserve, making it an ideal habitat for a wide variety of wildlife and offering a scenic backdrop for safaris and nature enthusiasts.

So much for the more detailed info. Now back to our adventures.

The pool at Sarova Shaba

We settle at the poolside after lunch. Tired legs and backs from the long drive. We sip mixed tea (Kenyan Tea or Indian Tea). Vervet Monkeys abound everywhere and leap around the grass and the trees.

An occasional monkey bites at the Doum Palm tree fruit (Makoma) and discards it along the natural stone walkway.

We walk to the edge of the grilled fence that defines the boundary of the lodge from the river. The river is full and raging -- I quietly think - 'is this El-Nino" 

The sand banks are all but gone. A Grey Heron and a Yellow Billed Stork paddle in an Ox-Bow lake that has formed just to the North of the River Bank. They are least bothered by the raging Ewaso Nyiro River.

The sound is therpeutic. I sIt on one of many steel benches along the fence. A Pied Kingfishers squeaks to announce its territory. Having announced itself it settles on the edge of a riverine shrub gazing into the river for fishlings or dragon flies or other small bitings that befit its diminutive demeanor.

The sun is setting quickly and the light reduces. The bright blue sky now turns into an indigo haze. A waxing moon appears on the Western Sky ....

Its almost time for dinner. But before dinner I have to pray and catch up on lost prayers of the day.

This I manage in around 20 minutes and ready for dinner. 

A Samburu flute is clearly pouring out rueful tunes in the direction of the dining hall. It sound monotonous but it certainly fits into the whole ambiance. A raging river, night birds chirping away, a myriad of cicadas welcoming the Samburu nightfall and an occassional cackle of vervet monkeys who have now all but hibernated into their treetop perches - seemingly away from night prowling predators such as Leapoards.

As we arrive at the Dining Hall I notice that indeed it is a Samburu Moran playing the flute at the entrance.

And he is adept at it. The notes are few, but the variations clearly break the monotony.

Dinner is beef steak (which was rather hard) with a variety of carbs and salads.

It is a good enough dinner - though I feel they can do better than this. But no point in complaining. The staff do their best and they give up their lives to live in the bush so as to serve the likes of us who suffer from wanderlust!!

After dinner we head back to the room. Tomorrow, we head for an early game drive. So an early night is important to achieve good rest.

TO BE CONTINUED>>>>>