CHASING THE SUNRISE: MT OLOLOKWE

And He it is who spread the earth and made in it firm mountains and rivers .... 

The Holy Quran (Surah Rad. ver.3)

20May2022

The announcement is curt and clear - 'Remember we leave Sabache Camp at 330am' the group leader whom we all referred to as AW announced in a firm but soft voice. She is an avid hiker and arranges trips for friends and also those suffering travel lust - as I do.

Today we are in Samburu County in Northern Kenya. And Mt Ololokwe is one of several granite massifs that straddle the expansive County. Other include fold mountains such as the Ndotto Range and Mathews Range further up North - among several other beautiful mountains and mountain ranges.

The North of Kenya is a beautiful part of the country that too few of us majority of Kenyans are aware of (wake up compatriots....we are missing out on a very beautiful part of our motherland!). This is partly but also largely because the North has for long been a no-go zone for decades due to the poor infrastructure and frequent tribal wars which to date afflict this paradise of Kenya. And in this garden of Eden lies Mt Ololokwe...nowadays made even more famous because the roads to the North are so good!

Mt Ololokwe remains arguably one of the more photographed mountains in Kenya because it straddles right next to the great North Road and rises nearly 800 metres above its surroundings thus a striking sentinel and beautiful landmark feature which no one can miss as you travel this not too busy yet road .... get moving guys before matatus and boda bodas pollute this yet virgin part of our country.

So by this very character - to hike up this landmark granite massif has long been a top priority in my bucket list for hiking.

So when the opportunity arose to hike up the granite massif, I jumped at it.

The road trip from Nairobi takes us up the great North Road via Sagana, Karatina,  Nanyuki, Isiolo, Archers Post.

The dry spell has not abetted. Rains have largely failed. The once green lush Central Kenya now resembles part of the semi-arid Ukambani. But we Kenyans are too embroiled in electioneering to notice how our motherland is deteriorating from environmental damage caused by human activity. 

Lunch in Isiolo is a brief affair. Rice and Arosto - a form of roast goat with a sprinkle of beans, cabbage and some lentils. 

Once we are filled up we head North but not before I remove a screw that has punctured one of my rear wheels. This is promptly fixed by a Waite (nickname of a Meru man) who is chewing a mouthful of miraa. 'Murume unaona nimekufanyia kazi muzuri' he retorts after completing the tubeless repair procedure which takes less than 3 minutes. I dutifully agree with him. I deliberately avoid chatting him up as this will result in him holding me for several hours and probably also extort some money out of me for his obvious addiction of miraa. This is what miraa does to people.....once the high of miraa gets the person then he is enslaved to the fix and becomes obsessed with how he will get the next few fixes...!! So, I make a hurried exit away from him once I have paid him his dues + an extra to keep him from pestering me.  

We head North towards the once badlands of Ngaremara, Archer's Post and beyond. The Ewaso Nyiro River - once a permanent river is now almost seasonal. I hope the Western World is listening - 'You are the cause of Global Warming, and we suffer the hardest from its consequences - then you blame us for our poverty - yet again you enslaved our ancestors and stole all our wealth, and you continue doing this shamelessly!'

Archer's Post has not change since I was last here more than 4 years ago. It is still the sleepy town with a wild western town character - the only feature missing is swashbuckling cowboys on horseback ready to shoot any unfamiliar movement with their revolvers. Instead, the town is bustling with Samburu tribesmen and women mostly in modern clothing but dotted here and there one gets a glimpse of traditionally clad tribesfolk - walking in typical long strides of nomadic people. One has to be careful in this Wild Western town as there is only one road and that is the main road heading North - and people cross it with total disdain to vehicles. The speed reducing bumps help keep accidents to a minimum - but one cannot afford to not be careful.

From here the journey now takes us into Samburu County. since we left Isiolo, Mt Ololokwe has been visible though hazy - the haziness a result of the current drought which is ravaging Eastern Africa and beyond. The mountain now dominates the view as one heads towards it. I believe it is an Inselberg evident from the tall vertical granite facades and surrounding forest along the lower sections.

30km after Archer's Post we reach the turn-off point towards Sabache Camp - the Camp at the foothill of Mt Ololokwe from where all hikes up the massif are arranged. The drive is a pleasant 2.5km through very pristine Acacia Glades interspersed by bushes. Samburu children tend to their sheep and a few camels with traditional bells around their necks. They run along the car begging for water. Water is indeed scarce in these parts.

ROAD LEADING TO SABACHE CAMP

After crossing two dry seasonal riverbeds we reach upon a small metal gate made from angle iron frames and weld mesh infill. A young Samburu boy opens the gate, and we drive through. We have reached Sabache camp and are received by pleasant staff. I haggle the price for my boarding and finally get a discount for the night stay.

I am shown to my room - its room no. 2. It's really not a room but a tented sleeping unit with attached toilet and shower - it really is pleasant and cozy.

The tented room comprises of a frontal entrance lobby that acts as a generous verandah cum entrance porch cum dining lounge. Dominating this lounge is a comfy seat adorned in shuka drapery and several pillows and a soft enough mattress which can serve both as a seat and bed as well (presumably to doze during the midday heat).

The inside bedroom is rather squeezed with two larger than normal single beds and a small gap between them that also serves as the corridor space leading to the toilet and shower structure at the rear end.

The whole ambiance is one of natural and traditional architecture. Good enough and well done actually.

Once I've taken in my little luggage I settle down for the evening and the night. As the evening draws and light diminishes - the sounds of livestock returning home dominates the bird songs that herald evenings in the bush.

A lone Samburu man's voice rings out in the near distance. He is singing a song in the native language. It's a typical repetitive song with humming at every juncture ... and this goes on well into the night. The bells of the camels and sheep and goats also punctuate the lone singing ... and every so often a night bird interrupts the overall sound scene of the Samburu night. It's a relaxing environment .... one that I relish.

Keeping in mind the following day's schedule I prepare my stuff in readiness for the early rise tomorrow morning. Hiking shoes, backpack with water and snacks, torches (two of them), jacket, hat ..... I am ready. Only the phones will not be in the bundle for the hike - these require to be charged before they switch off the generator.

I settle in for the night - having set the alarm to wake me up at 3am - for we have to start our hike at 330am. 

3am. The sharp startle of my phone alarm jolts me up in a rather rude awakening. Its stark and very dark outside. I can see through the gap of the tent walls and the net windows - its pitch black. A distant whistle of some strange bird punctuates my startled awakening. 

I gather my bearings in the tent. There is no electricity. The generator was switched off at 9pm or thereabouts. I grope for my phone which I had left charging before sleeping. Its somewhere on the timber-slated worktop that also holds my toilet bag. I reach for it and it lights up (Thank you Samsung!).

After a short bathroom break - I am ready.

We all converge at the dining hall of the Sabache Camp. The Samburu men are around as well. 2 of them seem to be the night guards and appear as though they have been awake all night - and they seem bright as ever! 

Simon introduces himself to us. "I am your guide, is everyone ready? he asks.

Some of us simply nod from the groggy lack of sleep. 

Others mutter a reluctant yes .... and even more ask about breakfast. I keep my silence and my thoughts to myself ... thoughts of the bed in my tented camp which was so warm and comfy and the beautiful comfortable outdoor seat are no longer an option .... 

AW the team leader is a bubbly enthusiastic one and cheerfully awakens everyone with a small pep talk. "Don't worry guys - its not as hard as you might have heard ... lets go, Simon!"

A short description of AW: she happens to be a computer whizz kid with a devoted passion for the outdoors - specifically hiking....and hence the enthusiasm!

Simon, our guide takes over.

The waxing moon casts a reluctant dim light into the pitch Samburu darkness! The strange lone bird that whistled whilst I was waking up reminds me it is still there - now with more frequent but still unsure coos about the impending new day! The false dawn is slowly forming a streak of light in the distant East - reminding me of the Glory of God --- the promise of a new day ..... 

AW reminds us that it is the sunrise we are chasing ... and we hope it will be worth the effort and skipping of sleep and breakfast ... !

Simon guides us out of rusted metal pedestrian gate of the camp perimeter and over a dry riverbed bedecked by a rather flimsy concrete bridge which has no sides ..... 

The climb begins. We follow in a file. One behind the other. One step at a time up the sometimes very steep steps and sometimes rather gentle ones. 

Our torches cast forelone beams into the pitch darkness

All of us are silent almost melancholy ... from the exertion, the darkness, the lack of tea (and breakfast) ... and the general unfamiliar timings, surroundings and the uphill task ahead.

Thankfully, there is no sign of rain.  

There is hardly any wind.

Its also not too cold - surprisingly.

AW recalls her last climb up this massif a few weeks ago - when they were 3 of them and got rained upon all the way up and through the night (yes, they camped up in the wilderness in the open in the rain celebrating her birthday!). Even smoking the holy herb would not have alleviated their encounter with the elements -- and a caveat here; NO, they don't smoke any such holy or unholy herbs.... so, guys don't worry - things could certainly have been worse.

We continue with the uphill trek.

Simon helps out with a hand to pull up anyone of us who struggles up a rather steep section or a large riser. 

We have a variety of sizes of human beings. The fit ones, the geriatric ones (like yours truly!), the not so fit ones, the large ones and small ones --- but yes, it is a good and jolly group.

Simon is a gentle man. He is patient and waits when necessary. Helps where required to. And points out various features in the waning darkness.

So, the two leaders, Simon and AW are relentless in their soft but constant encouragement - this helps; for our fitness levels are varied and we certainly cannot leave anyone of us behind in this foreboding yet beautiful and virgin wilderness in one of the more remote counties in Kenya -- far far away from civilization.

Shortly, we reach a kopje. A view point. 

We are approximately halfway up.

It's a flat rock with stunning views to the North and Northeast.

Simon points out his village proudly. A few lights moving around. The early risers have started their work. Certainly, just women getting ready for the chores of the day ahead. Milking, fetching water, getting children ready for school, preparing breakfast for their heroic snoring husbands ... yes indeed you have sensed right; I do have a problem with this lope sided division of work!!! 

I stand by my opinion - but who am i to question this age old -system -- which to me is grossly unfair to one gender. So much for my opinions ..... back to the mountain.

In the distant, nearly 25km away; AW points out the Great North Road heading to Marsabit and beyond. Tiny dots of moving truck lights in the distance reveal the journey of the long haul. Memories of my first trip to Marsabit are still fresh in my mind. 

A fellow climber comments pitifully how the truck drivers must be tired from the long journeys - I quickly retort that this is NOT the case. 

Its quite the opposite. 

The truck drivers suffer from a pleasant syndrome called wanderlust - which is fueled further by two of the holy herbs - miraa and muguoka!

The truck drivers are fine and actually elated .... so please don't pity them. They are just fine and happy.

Someone comments, Abdul you seem to be a consultant on all matters holy herbs ..... I only reply, "But do I say!"

This rests the case after everyone has had a hearty laugh and momentarily forgotten the climb that lays ahead.

AW reminds everyone that we have a sunrise to catch.

We start the slow trek uphill again.

Within a few minutes everyone is melancholy again. Funny how emotions change so fast - have you ever wondered?

Thoughts of the climb, the missed breakfast, the comfy beds and other worldly comforts haunt the climbing team again.

But no one talks lest weakness is construed! We are all tough aren't we?

We make good progress and presently reach a low rising plateau.

AW announces that the tough climb is over and now it's a long gentle uphill trek.

The team is elated.

The flora and environment changes. 

The trees are more highland type now. Many of them bent due to the constant wind battering them.

There is plentiful grass and signs of water too.

The Samburu indeed bring their cattle up here for grazing and in a short while we chance upon a herd of cattle guarded by Samburu youth. There is a small fire lit below a large tree and signs of their sleeping mats.

Simon talks to them and confirms that these guys have been up here for several days.

We trek on and signs of the sunrise are on the horizon.

We are not too far from the destination.

And soon reach upon the high point, the peak from where we can see across the horizon in all directions.

Indeed the sun is rising - but unfortunately for us its a very hazy day - so its not exactly the magical sunrise we were hoping for.

But truth be said - it is still a magical view and the stunning landscapes crowned by the orange and yellow hues of the horizon are worth the effort.

Simon and AW enjoying the views

We take a welcome break. Everyone snaps away at the views, selfies and the landscape.

We devour our snacks. Breakfast is no longer necessary. The experience and the elation suffice for the missed meals and sleep.

An hour of relaxation later we all descend the route we came up by.

Its easier now. Its downhill. 

The climb had taken us a full 4 hours up but the descent would be about two and half hours and thankfully downhill.

We reach Sabache at 1030am.

I rush for a welcome shower and change of clothes.

I have a journey back today - back to Nairobi -- more than 300km away.

The Dining Tent

The journey back to Nairobi is uneventful. Its just a long drive.

I promise my team that I'll be back .... soon!!

Thank you Simon. 

Thank you AW!!