14 YEARS LATER

 6 April 2025

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.” –Mark Twain

Sunrise: Mara River (all photos by ALK)

Honestly, I was expecting a newer Land Cruiser.

KBY! Surely? And for 65k?  And for two days? I felt abit cheated...by Gulab?

"Is this car ok?" I ask Gulab - our pilot.

"Yes, this is a perfect car. Don't look at its age and interiors" He tries to assure me.

Its too late to change now!

I say a silent prayer as we board. (I always pray irrespective of the condition of the car: God is always in control)

Destination: Neptune Mara.

Its 14 years since I last visited Neptune Mara..

The drive from Nairobi started at 6am. Uneventful and safe. By 10am we were in Narok and onto to Mara North via Ololunga and Ngorengore.

Really rough road. Huge ruts worsened by tractors plying to and from the large wheat and maize plantations ... owned by you know who and who .... And its planting season - so heavy traffic of these behemoths. And of course, the ever-present boda bodas!

We arrive to our destination by 1245pm ... 

The resort has mellowed. The trees have matured. The open grass areas are now lush thickets and bushes of Olive and Croton trees. Interspaced with Yellow Barked Acacia. A few Ficus (Fig) trees punctuate the savannah forest that now envelopes the entire resort.

It's totally wooded now, pleasantly! In places its almost thick forest - where once it was open grassland!)

Amin, Anar and Sheema ... you guys have done a sterling job! Well done!

As we arrive, Judy is smiling and with expectant & genuine warmth, welcomes us. She had called me 2 hours earlier when we were in Narok asking about our safety and well-being...talk about care and concern!

Thank you, once again --- Amin, Anar and Sheema....your true conviviality, love and hospitable nature has rubbed off onto all your staff.

If this world had just a few more people like you, it would have been thousands of time a better place than it is!

No worries.

God is listening to my prayers.

3 glasses of freshly pressed and blended Watermelon juice are handed to Muna, our pilot (Gulab) and I.

Dusty throats are appeased, and the dry thirst is quenched... It was a longish drive. But we are safely here.

Judy is amiable and genuinely happy to see us and not hiding it.

She ushers us to a comfortable settee of leather and feather soft pillows.

"This is the lounge and that's the bar there and that's the spa," she familiarises us.

"You need to make a booking in case you need any of those services."

"Beyond the bar is the dining hall and meals times are as follows ... "

Judy is precise and helpful, but she is obviously not aware that I was involved ... not just in the construction but also the design of the lodge...no need to spoil her pitch..

After a brief description of the lodge we are introduced to the persons we shall interact with.

John the F&B Manager. He is the acting manager in the absence of Wesley...a longtime acquaintance. Another happy smiling member of the joyous team.

Moses our butler. He has been aptly described as our go-to-man in case of any needs and assistance. He is also friendly, helpful and smiling. And he reckons he remembers me during the days of design and construction. I am happy to hear this - at least there is some institutional memory.

Alfred the waiter. He will sort out our tummies. He remembers me too. I don't remember him but he has all his historical facts right.

Linda the one who arranges our morning wakeup call (not that we need to be woken up, a lifelong routine of prayers and worship has made it second nature for us to wake up at 445am with or without any alarm....everyday irrespective of the occasion).

But Linda promises this with morning coffee so why not....we could do with a bit of pampering.

Sheila and Daniel the guide are also introduced as part of the team.

Introductions completed. An indeed friendly and helpful team.

We are led to what will be our designated room for the next 20 hours or so ...

Room no. 10. Named: Zebra. Oloitiko

Our meagre luggage is easily carried off by Moses. We are here for only one night ... sadly.

He then shows us the various amenities in the room.

I am familiar with everything... but I let him do his job. He is enjoying it and so why not!

The Bedroom

The Bathroom

A quick bathroom break and we head back to the lounge...its lunchtime.

Our table has been arranged on the edge of the cliff ---.

The river is some 10ft below and the newly constructed gabions protect the exposed vertical faces.

Yours truly with his better half!

In the pools, hippos dip in and out every so often rather noisily. They are at home so we cannot fault them for being what they are ... hippos.

Mara River at one of the many meanders. Facing Oloololo Escarpment

Alfred serves us a 5 course, sumptuous meal.

If I were to stay here for an extra day or so then I'll add no less than 5kgs! But I'm not complaining.

Lunch is therefore, not a mundane affair...its a ritual.

And Alfred makes sure we partake in this ritual at his pace...and we are game for this, no complaints.

Beginning with a choice of sparkling or still water and ending with a choice of fruits, white forest cake and cup of coffee to complete for good measure.

Its the middle courses that fill you up.

The starters, usually a salad.

The soup downed with buns and butter.

And the main dish. A deliberately designed meal of proteins, carbs and greens.

We avoid the pork...steak and prawns are fine.

After this ritual lunch I am tired, honestly...

But there's work to be done. John is waiting. He wants to share ideas with me. And I am eager to cross the suspension bridge and see what's on his mind .. + the brief given to me by Sheema.

The Suspension Bridge across the River

The Mara River is of course as I left it. Recently constructed gabions and a new pedestrian bridge across are new structures. But they blend in!

Looks nice!

A large hippo eyes me with disdain. He is comfortable. John points him out to me, "He is the Alpha Male.." The Mara River is full so there are enough pools to define every bull's territory. His eyes are firmly fixed onto his harem and the calves whose nostrils are visible every few minutes when they surface to breathe. Hippos are extremely territorial, and males (bulls) will fight to death to defend their pools and their harems, their turf..

The recent rains have given life to the river and all life that revolves around it. The rocky outcrops create small rapids and a soothing sound. The resulting minute sprays fill the air with a nature aroma. This is the wild proper!

We cross the suspension pedestrian bridge...over the Mara River.

Its fairly firm in the middle section but wobbly towards the end...a design query. This is not part of my purpose here. I mention the wobble to John... I know this will get to the relevant ears.

We discuss the salient points of what's to be done.

We share opinions. I listen more. I want to get all the views so I can comprehensively answer the needs.

He suggests we drive up the Oloololo Escarpment. He wants me to see what he feels should be done.

I oblige. A slow drive up the scattered trees and open grasslands with no sign of any track ... but our elderly Maasai guide is a local and he knows the area and the terrain well. We are headed to a large rock outcrop some 60m above the middle section of the escarpment.

This is named Elephant Rock. John wants this as one of the sites for some structures. I note this. Too far? Too remote? Well, many considerations before a final decision. But the environment is pristine indeed. The view towards Mara North is gorgeous and endless. 

To the East the Aitong Hills are clear and standing out like a sentinel. To the South, the Oloololo Escarpment winds along the Mara River and disappears into Tanzania and the Kuria badlands --- famed for the 'mbungo' (tsetse flies) and the poachers who crisscross the border at will.

Half Way up Oloololo Escarpment

Rain clouds are gathering. There is a tell-tale rumble to the South. Large droplets of rain are already falling. We must hurry back to the lodge. The lack of defined tracks combined with the treacherous Black Cotton Soil is a perilous duo - and even the fabled Land Cruiser cannot outdo these two combined. So, we play it safe and hurry back towards the River and the suspension bridge.

Safely back to the lodge; Muna and I head to the Lounge for a cup of tea. This is served with coconut and sugar-coated cookies. I don't watch calories when on holidays (well I generally don't watch calories - but that is my own super-secret which I shall share with no one - Ahem!)

After 2 cups of tea and the not very low-in-calories cookies; we head for an evening walk. This time around the entire lodge. I point out the various nodes, buildings and some nostalgic memories such as where our fireplace and our tents used to be. Our open-air shower and bathroom. Our lean-to shed which doubled up as dining room ... and other small but pleasant details.

14 years is a long time ... but the memories are vivid and pleasant. Sheema, thank you for reminding me how time fleets past! And thank you for this opportunity!

As we walk the murram path, Dik-dik pairs dart into and out of the bushes. They are almost tame. These smallest of the antelope family live in pairs and mate for life!. Legend has it that if one dies then the other follows shortly. 

Human beings, are you listening? Maybe this is the true meaning of love?

Its been a long day. A fruitful one. Dinner is scheduled for 730pm, more than an hour away. 

We freshen up. As I enjoy the sounds of the rushing river below. The hippos are snorting away. 

A Yellow Billed Stork is wading in the shallow pools. He has been at it the whole day. He/she is constantly dipping her slightly open bill into the shallow pools hoping to catch an unwary shrimp or frog.

The Yellow Billed Stork

A smaller bird, the Hammerkop is ever present following his taller cousin, the stork...wadding in the same pools along the riverside of Mara River. The Hammerkop feeds on smaller insects and prey disturbed by the Stork. Despite his diminutive stature, the Hammerkop builds the largest nest in the bird kingdom.

A noisy triplet of Egyptian Geese (rather Egyptian Ganders) are having territorial fights in the never-ending battles for mating rights with a least-bothered female Egyptian Goose. Ironically, how so similar to humans! After all we live on the same planet and the female rules! 

As the sun sets...the hippos stir. A juvenile hippo pops out of the water and slowly trots across a rocky outcrop into another pool... he/she is cloesly watched by a grooming pair of Egyptian Geese ....

Juvenile Hippo & Pair of Egyptian Geese

A herd of bachelor Impala have been hovering near the shore. One braver one wanders near the shore to browse on tasty green buds in the sand bed - warily looking towards the river for crocodiles as his colleagues scout the nearby bushes for danger from land-based predators.

A young male Impala on the sand bed

Its almost dark now. The sounds of evening birds fills the air. The scent of the recent drizzle fills the air, its therapeutic. 

The lodge has been lit up with solar lamps. The evening chill has picked speed. Its chilly. The lodge is glorious in its night dress of warm lights. The swimming pool is a deep blue. 

Evening View of the Lodge

The fireplace has been re-stocked with dry timber and its up and crackling. Wilson, a trainee, is tending the fire.

He reports that the local pride of lions has just visited the other side of the river and disappeared into the bushes. We gaze fixedly hoping to catch a glimpse. They are long gone. The hippos had sensed danger and moved away from that shore and come towards the lodge - and were now slowly returning to their favorite pools.

Time for dinner ...

The Dining Hall

Our Dinner: Gourmet Dinner!

Dinner is even more gorgeous. And even though I am still full from lunch and the cookies ... I partake in it. Muna orders Chicken with Mukimo and I order a vegetarian option. Its again a 5-course affair .. but we take only 3 of the courses. Alfred makes sure we are well taken care of ... of course ensuring we go through the ritual.

I notice even Gulab is dining with us ... and he is also happily taken care of.

After a hot cup of masala tea, we retire to our Room no. 10 .... Oloitiko.

As we walk through the pristine nature, we hear the hippos bellow in the river. Hippos feed in the night and are more active then... so the bellows and grunts are more frequent now.

Night birds sing their Swan songs .... and a rustle here and there announces a hare or maybe an owl.

An evening view of our room no. 10

As we arrive into our room; there is a distinct change. The flaps have been drawn. The bed prepared. Two dark chocolate drops have been placed on either side of the bed. 

The chill is biting. But Neptune is famous for taking care of all details. Hot water bottles have been discreetly placed between the sheets.

The sound of the river rushing over the rocks is a soothing sound.

Nature at its best.

An occasional bellow from a hippo rises above the sounds of the river. But it hardly disturbs the peace.

It is part of the peace!

Muna is already tucked in and seems fast asleep..

I follow suit. I say my prayers in my heart...and somewhere along the line, sweet slumber takes me to the nether and strange world of sleep.

Sometime around midnight or maybe 1am, a deep guttural roar from across the river rises above the sound of the river.

At first, I am not sure whether I'm dreaming or is it real.

5 minutes later, it repeats. Now its distinct. Its real, this is not a dream.

A male lion's roar.

An announcement of his territory.

Its a signature roar that starts with a rather loud one followed by subsequent softer ones which die off after 4 to 5 roars.

I don't know what time it is...

I don't want to disturb Muna so I lay still.

Half awake, half in dreamland.

Neither dead nor alive..

The roar repeats after some 20 or so minutes.

A night bird whistles..as though in defiance of the roar from the king of animals.

Its all so pleasant.

I urge myself back to sleep with minimum disturbance to my sleeping partner.

We are of that age when undisturbed sleep is more valuable than many worldly possessions...

You will get here and you will remember me for having said this!

The roaring continues for another 6 or 7 occasions.

I don't bemoan him, this king of animals.

This is his territory

I am but a passerby.

And really, I am actually here to partly experience this nature in its most primal form ... as it has been for thousands of years!

And like several decades, I am awake by 445am. Time to pray. Moses dutifully comes to our room with coffee at 530am. We sip coffee as the bird songs increase in frequency and volume.

Outside, the dark red rays of the sun have turned orange. The sunrise!

I cannot miss opportunity! And true the Mara spirit, it does not disappoint. A spectacular sunrise unfolds in the East ... just beyond the Ngerende Hills.

This is the meaning of life --- experiences rather than material gain .... if you are reading this deeply, you will remember me for having said this!

Sunrise from Room no. 10 - Oloitiko

The Yellow Billed Stork is also already up and about. As is his friend the Hammerkop. The hippos are snorting away. And the birds are singing out their joy to the glory of God - as they have done for millennia!

Breakfast is another sumptuous affair. 5 courses of eggs, sausages, fried mushrooms, cereals, toasted bread all served with a smile!

After the final goodbyes we head into our not-very-new Land Cruiser...I really shouldn't rub this in.

As we drive back home to Nairobi, via Narok... we reach Nairagie Enkare ... an outpost on the Eastern end of the Mau Forest.

Point of call for us.

Fresh roasted maize. Straight from the farms a few 100m away. 30/- per cob!

Choose the bright green stalks for the fresh ones because as the stalk yellows, the seeds harden, good for maize meal but not too kind on the teeth as roast maize.

We devour the tasty snack as we pass Mt Suswa and Mt Longonot...

Both the peaks are shrouded in heavy Cumulo-Nimbus clouds.

Its a cold and rainy day... I am not complaining. I am happy.

This is yet another day which God has made.!

This is the day, this is the day

That the Lord has made, that the Lord has made

I will rejoice, I will rejoice

And be glad in it, and be glad in it....