MOGADISHU - A Nation's Effort to Restore Lost Glory

24Feb2025

 

Mt Kenya from 30,000ft enroute to Mogadishu - photo taken from my seat window

I deliberately choose this quote because the country I am headed to has not known peace since 1991 ... 'May the Power of Love overcome the Love of Power - Ameen!'

Once again am headed to Mogadishu. A close friend and long time client, Bashir has called me up to go see the possibility of 2 projects.

One an interior job and another a Master Plan.

PREAMBLE:

Mogadishu, the capital of Somalia, is the country’s largest city and economic hub. Located on the Indian Ocean, it has been a key trade center for centuries, connecting Africa, the Middle East, and beyond.

Key Facts About Mogadishu:

Population: Over 2 million people

Language: Somali (official), Arabic, English, and Italian are also used 

Currency: Somali Shilling (SOS)Climate: Hot and arid, with average temperatures around 27–32°C (80–90°F) year-round

Economy: Driven by trade, fishing, telecommunications, and remittances from the Somali diaspora

Historical Significance:

Mogadishu has a rich history, dating back over 1,000 years as a major Islamic and trade center. It was influenced by Arab, Persian, and Italian cultures, and was once a colony of Italy before Somalia gained independence in 1960.

Current Situation:

While Mogadishu has faced challenges due to conflict and instability, recent years have seen reconstruction efforts, new businesses, and infrastructure development.

Later on, we shall discuss "Black Hawk Down" - briefly - for Mogadishu is not Mogadishu without this incidence! 

The alarm is set at 330am. I have hardly rested. I am developing a flu. Maybe the result of lack of rest (yes indeed i am quite susceptible especially when I dont rest).

I promise myself that I shall catch up on rest as soon as I get back to Nairobi.  This week will be a rest week. And then start the month of Ramadhan, insha ALLAH

May ALLAH swt bless us to attain and reap the benefits of this month. Ameen.

The shrill alarm jolts me from a semi slumber. Its been a short sleep but somewhat restful. Alhamdulillah.

I think a significant factor contributing to my health challenges stem from my very poor sleep patterns, certainly insufficient quantity and poor quality - for sure!.

This is my next focus...get enough, good quality sleep and rest.

I quickly freshen up, change into my work attire. The Bolt taxi is prompt. The driver is already hinting the fare he expects.

"Usijali, nitakulipa vizuri," I assure him. This calms his nerves.

I remain silent throughout the journey and promptly pay him more than what the App shows.

At the airport, a pleasant surprise. I've been booked in business class - Seat No. 1A. So all perks to my disposal; including Lounge access, full breakfast in the flight and other pamperings!

I have access to Mara Lounge and immediately after my recitation of Quran and fajr prayer I head there.

A well-balanced diet of fruits, yoghurt, brown bread with cheese and marmalade and all this downed with a cup of hot tea.

Later on I take a bottle of water. But before drinking this water, a bathroom break.

I walk into the gents. To my shock and dismay, there is no water for washing oneself! What! A terminal that is 90% used by Muslims! I quickly walk out and pick my bottle of drinking water and back to the loo. Now I am comfortable! I can forego drinking water but not forego using water in the loo (if I can help it!). Shame on you JKIA and KAA !

Soon its time to board.  When we get closer to the aircraft, I realise SAACID AIR is the same as Renegade Air (the local version). Later on Bashir informs me that SAACID had to hire the Renegade Aircraft since theirs was under repair.

Women and children form a separate queue. They board first. Excited children run in and out of the queues, knocking into passengers. Their mothers, oblivious to this. They see nothing wrong and neither do the rest of the passengers. Its as though we are already in Somalia!

The air is crisp and clear. The sounds of aircraft landing and taking off are a constant companion. The airline staff manning the queues rattle off conversations in rapid fire Somali language There is a mini pandemonium. Passengers jumping queues with disdain and there is general indiscipline. I maintain my calm at the rear end of the queue. I must reboot my mind and keep reminding myself 'I am going to Somalia'.

Glossy Starlings fly past and eat crumbs on the airport apron. In the distant grass i make out a Black Headed Heron standing still ... he is hunting for small animals such as frogs, grasshoppers and other tasty insects and crustaceans. There must be some patch of water there!

After a long and slow process, we board. And yet another pleasant surprise, the stewards are my buddies, so I expect to be comfortable.

And soon we are off after the Quranic dua by steward Ahmed.

We take off in the Northeasterly direction.

Mt Kenya is clear to the North. The snow is all but gone. Distant patches remain but I sadly wonder whether that's really snow or just wisps of clouds .... yes, we have damaged the Earth, and we are paying dearly in all manner of ways.

And then we seek divine help for our sins! What audacity!

The flight is uneventful. They serve me with yet another hearty breakfast with a choice of hot drinks. I choose black tea without sugar. I nibble less than half the packed breakfast and finish off the Bio Yoghurt and fruit for good measure. The bottle of water, this I will carry for relief in Mogadishu.

Bashir had communicated whilst I was in Mara Lounge...He is waiting for me at the airport. Past experiences here haven't always been good, even though I have maneuvered through after somewhat long waits.

I am not worried. My host is 'connected', and I don't anticipate much trouble. Besides I have a pre-arranged visa, and I have the whole day for what I predict to be fairly simple tasks. I have my laser measuring device, a gridline book and a pen. Ready to go!

We land from the South over the crystal clear Indian Ocean. The beaches are still clean, white and pristine. Thankfully, the greedy white man hasn't reached here! But he keeps eyeing it -- no worries, the Turks will take care of them!

There are markedly more developments in comparison to when I was last here. But it is still pristine!

We land safely. We are all herded into a bus. One or two VIPs avoid the herding and go into a well labelled door reading 'VIP LOUNGE' in large loud letters. I join the other passengers and board the bus. 

But before long an airport staff beckons me out of the bus and asks, "Are you Abdullatif?"

"Yes". I reply.

"Follow me" he orders.

I oblige. We head into the VIP Lounge. There he takes my passport and hands it over to a single counter, then beckons me into a large well-furnished cafe/lounge.

Here I meet my hosts, Bashir and Jama....amongst various important looking people. I feel abit out of place because I always maintain a humble and modest attitude in life. But hey! - my hosts want me here so here I am.

A long wait for my passport. We catch up on one another. Jama reckons, "You have aged, Bro".

"My wife says I am still young and 'OK'," I retort...."And this is all that matters!"

We all have a hearty laugh when Bashir declares that Jama's opinion carries no weight in comparison to my wife's.

Finally, I have my passport back.

We head into the city. It has changed.

A vista of the Cityscape

History of Mogadishu

Mogadishu, one of the oldest cities in East Africa, has a rich and diverse history shaped by trade, migration, and colonialism.

Ancient & Medieval Period (9th – 16th Century)

 

Early Settlement: Mogadishu’s origins trace back to at least the 9th century, when Arab and Persian traders established a settlement along the Somali coast.

Islamic Influence: By the 10th century, Islam had spread, making Mogadishu a center for Islamic scholarship and trade.

Golden Age (13th – 15th Century): The city became part of the Ajuran Sultanate, which controlled much of southern Somalia. It was a wealthy and powerful city, known for trade with India, Persia, and China.Ibn Battuta's Visit (14th Century): The famous Moroccan traveler described Mogadishu as a thriving city with large markets, a strong government, and skilled artisans.

Portuguese & Omani Influence (16th – 19th Century)

 

In the 16th century, the Portuguese attempted to control Mogadishu but failed due to resistance from local rulers.

By the 17th century, the Omani Sultanate took influence over the city, bringing closer ties with the Middle East.

Colonial Era (19th – 20th Century)

 

Italian Colonization (1889 – 1960):

Italy took control of Mogadishu in 1889, incorporating it into Italian Somaliland.

The city saw European-style urban development, with roads, buildings, and ports built by the Italians.

By the 1930s, Mogadishu had a large Italian population and was the economic center of Somalia.

World War II & British Control:

 

In 1941, the British occupied Mogadishu, ending Italian rule.

 

In 1950, Italy regained control under a UN trusteeship, preparing Somalia for independence.

Independence & Civil War (1960 – Present)

 

1960: Somalia gained independence, and Mogadishu became the capital.

1969: A military coup brought Siad Barre to power, leading to a socialist government.

1991: Barre’s regime collapsed, and Somalia fell into civil war. Warlords and militias fought for control, leading to decades of instability.

2000s – Present:

The city has been rebuilding with new infrastructure, businesses, and government efforts.

The Somali government, supported by African Union troops (AMISOM), has regained control of most of the city from militants like Al-Shabaab.

Mogadishu Today

        Despite its turbulent history, Mogadishu is experiencing revitalization,              with new hotels, businesses, and infrastructure projects emerging.

The security into the city from the heavily guarded Airport is excessive (understandably so!). We cross at least 4 or 5 barricaded check points and drive in zigzag manner between large sand filled gabions. At the final check near Afrik Hotel, we are waved through by soldiers manning the check point, armed to the teeth. 

We are now in the City proper. 

There are many many Tuk Tuks on the roads and the noise and chaos that accompanies this mode of traffic. There are so many of these tri-vehicles that they now have a rota basis to control congestion. So there are two categories - namely A & B .... A-registered Tuk tuks on one day and B- registered ones the next and so forth..

There is lots of construction.

And lots of commercial activity.

"Thanks to improved security," reckons my host.

We drive straight to my hotel. It belongs to Mde Maryama, a local celebrity in her own right.

We get down to business right away. She articulates her dream. A penthouse on top of a tower under construction.

We talk for like half an hour and then I'm guided to my room for the day.

Room no. 302 of the Hotel.

I deposit by backpack, take a short bathroom break and am back downstairs.

Here Munassir takes over. He is a trainee Civil Engineer and nephew to Madame.

We take a short walk to the Project and he explains the various spaces and their functions.

We walk up the stairs right up to 8th floor. From here the stairs are not protected and there are obstacles all round.

Safety first!, so I decline to go further up. I've gathered all the info I need. So after a short half hour tread up and down stairs we get back to the Hotel where both Bashir and Madame are waiting. I brief them. My day is sorted for today.

We discuss her project a little more in the rather mundane lounge with large ornate furniture.

Madame pours out more of her dreams. I record them.

Our host is certainly different. She wants a roof garden in her project. And I am happy to provide one.

I have a coffee appointment with Bashir after maghrib prayers but that is 6 hours away.

My flu is acting up abit. I need to wind down, pray, have lunch and certainly have a nap. I mustn't forget to prioritise my health.

Outside, the heat is searing. Its dry hot air with little humidity. Surprising for a coastal town!

The sound of Tuk Tuks is incessant. Lunch time traffic is busy. The hoots of cars mix with those of the Tuk Tuks. It's a constant din which takes some getting used to. Reminds me of India - the never-ending hoots.

There are few trees in this bustling concrete jungle. Maybe our brothers and sisters don't value greenery so much. Maybe the several decades of war have taken a steep toll on such issues as trees and landscaping. And priorities have changed. It is potentially a beautiful country with possibility of springing beyond all East African countries - for they have a few qualities most African countries do not have or do not value.

Entrepreneurship, business acumen, the courage to take risks. And capacity to mobilise resources.

Lunch: Grilled Fish, Pasta with a sprinkle of Olive Oil

The afternoon and evening are quiet. Upon my suggestion, Bashir agrees, and we decide not to do coffee today. I am tired and the flu needs a rest not to get worse.

I wind down with old Hindi songs by Mohamed Rafi and TikTok on my mobile phone ...a lazy and addictive mix.

Sleep catches up at 930pm. I decide not to have the AC on and soon drift off to that strange land called slumberland ... on the edge of life and death. A mystic land, even the best of doctors and scientists know little of. And yet we sleep and wake up every day. Maybe we should be more grateful for this such a valuable resource (or should I call it a miracle) which rejuvenates us every single day of our life!

I wake up at 4am. Bathroom call.

No way of sleeping again. Fajr prayer beckons - indeed one of the most important part of my day. So no chance of stealing any more winks of sleep.

I shower and freshen up. Just in time for the congregational prayer in the small mosque of the Hotel.

The city is quiet below. A few Tuktuks have already started plying their trade. One or two of them pass each other, loudly blaring their shrill horns - as if in envy of those who are still in bed.

The streets are devoid of people. No streetlights, just the shop front lights. The side streets are dark. No one walking there.

The story of Mogadishu cannot be complete without mentioning the movie "Black Hawk Down". This is a 2001 war film directed by Ridley Scott, based on the 1999 book Black Hawk Down: A Story of Modern War by journalist Mark Bowden. The film depicts the real-life Battle of Mogadishu, which took place on October 3–4, 1993, when U.S. Army Rangers and Delta Force operators conducted a mission to capture Somali warlord Mohamed Farrah Aidid’s top lieutenants.

The movie follows an elite group of U.S. soldiers deployed in Mogadishu, Somalia, as part of Operation Gothic Serpent. What was supposed to be a quick raid turns into a brutal 18-hour battle when Somali militia forces shoot down two Black Hawk helicopters. The soldiers, vastly outnumbered, fight for survival as they attempt to rescue their downed comrades..

In my opinion, this real life incident summarises the spirit of my brothers and sisters - The Somali. A noble Kushitic (Cushitic) people who adhere firmly to Islam - in fact the leading scholars of Islam today are largely Somali - the unsung heroes of the religion. One thing I can tell you my reader is that they happen to be my brothers and sisters. And my closest relatives and friends are Somali - I am proud of them and I am proud to be associated with them!

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Deserted Street in the Early Morning

A stray cat meows her mating call. A Pied Crow flies past silently, it's not yet time to start cawing.

The final verses of the Quran being recited in nearby mosques are clearly heard in the still morning air.

Twilight is forming on the Eastern horizon. And soon the sun peeps out of the haze which lingers between the sky and the horizon of the Indian Ocean.

Hazy Sunrise over slumbering Mogadishu

Yes, pollution of mega cities has reached here too.

After a few more minutes, the sun peeps out of the haze, yellowish orange in colour.

The warmth can already be felt...temperatures here can top 35deg.

I retire to my room and blog as I wait for breakfast.

I need the calories. My last meal was lunch yesterday. 130pm. More than 18 hours ago.

Breakfast comprises Spanish egg, small bowl of vegetables (more like onions), French Toast and Tea. I down these slowly, mindfully.

A short break in the room after breakfast, then a meeting with Hajia and Bashir. I recap the technical concerns I have of the project including the extra floors (and thus extra loads), the need for a false floor and provision of lifts and it's loading. Hajia encourages me to set up an office in Mogadishu. I agree.

Now time to leave.

Bashir suggests we pass through a halwa shop. "You cannot go home empty handed", he insists. Diabetic, Prediabetic or not, I readily agree. I know I'll burn the sugar before the pancreas even feels a pinch.

He buys 3 packs of 2kgs each. For my 3 homes. Muna, Imran and Walid.

Now time to go to the airport via Afrik Hotel.

Its been a fruitful trip. I have slowly come to love this battered city and its people. The resilience of those who remained behind and the faithfulness of the diaspora who have never for once abandoned their motherland.

The Somali are a faithful, honourable and enterprising people who have much good rather than the bad reputation that sometimes precedes them.

Mogadishu has promise and hope. Security is budding. Sanity and patriotism is taking root.

My prayer is the nation not get balkanised...!