HAIYEEE SEETAI!

 ONE TRAVELS TO RUN AWAY FROM ROUTINE.THAT DREADFUL ROUTINE THAT KILLS ALL IMAGINATION AND ALL OUR CAPACITY FOR ENTHUSIASM - Ella Maillart

I was scared the moment i boarded the flight. 

Alhamdulillah I have been on different airlines to many different destinations around the world.

This one was different.

I was flying to Mogadishu. 

The year was 2010.

Somalia was still in the throes of the never ending civil war.

The opposition had been largely pushed out of the city centre.

But areas near Lido Beach were still no go zones.

Large chunks of suburbia of Mogadishu were still not in the current governments control.

Most of Somalia was still at war and large chunks of Mogadishu were still no go zones for any non-Somali and indeed for many Somali as well..

 

The first shock was when we were about to board.

The aeroplane!

My God, I thought!

Is this not one of those abandoned planes at Wilson Airport but now painted with a new coat of paint?

 

I looked backwards towards the departure lounge thinking --- do I really have to go?

Why not just turn back and go back home ….. Surely Abdul some jobs are not worth the risk!

Stop freaking out - you will be OK.

Just pray and keep praying.

A voice in me urged me on. I walked on.

I climbed the rickety steps into the aeroplane.

 

The flight boarded with no incidence.

Women, children and some elderly men were the majority.

A few young men anxiously exchanged bits and pieces of information about the foreboding destination.

 

Unlike all other flights I'd been on..... This one started with the Muslim prayer for journeys..... ALLAHU AKBAR ALLAHU AKBAR ALLAHU AKBAR SUBHANALLADHI..... Glory to Him who has subjected this to us and we could never have it by our own effort. And verily, to our Lord we indeed are to return.

 

Ok good start….

I'm glad we started with a prayer

I studied the plane more critical as I belted on the safety belts (these were new and clicked on neatly without effort).

The interior of plane is old but redone to a good level of decency ..... It looks like a Mcdonnel Douglas DC10....

I couldn’t help but think again that this one must be one of those recycled from deepest part of the hangars in Wilson Airport….

Actually it really wasn’t that bad - but in comparison to my previous trips on other international airlines - well I think you get the point.

 

I'm worried. But soon the worry is dissipated by 2 thoughts...... Where i am going and will this machine take off (haha just joking - in the first place if it has to take off from JKIA it must have been inspected by the Kenyan Authorities and airworthiness is an important aspect of this).

 

The engines start, we taxi slowly and in rattling manner reach the take off zebra crossing marks on the runway.

The overhead luggage compartments are vibrating, something below is also making a hydraulic noise....

I stop thinking of all these sounds........

Did we not pray before rolling off? . Yes we did. Ok so leave everything to Him.

 

The throttles increase. The vibrations increase. The noise is deafening. The aeroplane starts off and gathers speed and takes off in an easterly direction.

Yup we are airborne.

 

I try to keep my ever busy mind in check....

The PA system crackles to life. The lady is talking in Somali. She sounds angry. 

But hey even if she wasnt angry the language almost sounds like she was quarrelling us the passengers....I am not wrong. 

She turns to English and announces that the person who has been smoking in the toilet must desist from doing so or else!

The guilty man returns to his seat and asks 'or else what? I am going back home and I am the government what will you do?' 

He finishes off by laughing cynically...and then rattles off in quick-fire Somali language.

 

I stay quiet and still. I am aghast. I am normally a compliant person. I haven't seen this kind of behaviour even in little Mogadishu (Eastleigh)....

 

Once airborne the aeroplane behaves rather well.

The vibrations are still there and in a way I am happy to have them because by my estimate there are at least 15 babies at different stages of infancy - all crying and bawling at the same time.

I could be wrong.

Probably there are only 3 babies but believe you me they sound like 20 babies all with megaphones.....so thanks to the vibrations. I think the vibrations are making the young ones really uncomfortable.

 

The stewardesses come around with packed breakfast.

They are angry.

The smoking incident has now been repeated again.

They toss the breakfast box at whoever is willing to receive them..... I gladly take mine and savor the Made in Kenya food.

Who knows what food I'll get in Somalia or when I'll get it.

Golden Rule number 1 for all travelers, when you have the opportunity to eat, eat!

When you have an opportunity to pee, pee and when you have an opportunity to do the long call do so with zeal cos you never know when the next opportunity will present itself.

 

I don't envy the stewardesses, they have a tough job.

It's tough to deal with passengers who are the government unto themselves.

 

After 2 and half hours the aeroplane starts its decent. On my right is the glorious Indian Ocean and on the left the endless beautiful virgin beaches.

The beaches are right within Mogadishu but there is no one bathing in the Ocean.

There are no hotels, no beach boys, no tubes (for the learners - mostly watu wa bara!), no plastic bottles - just clear clean beach - its beautiful.

 

Somalia is beautiful and unspoilt.

 

But before the plane actually touches the ground the guilty passenger is at it again. He walks back to his seat escorted by two stewardesses and they are all talking at one another in loud voices in Somali language.

 

Now me i only know 3 words in Somali which are Haiyee Wariah Seetai! Dont ask me their meanings because i really dont know but from their tone and how they are said and the gestures that accompany the word i can accurately guess what they mean.

 

Yes somehow I've mastered the meanings of conversations by means of tone, loudness, gestures and the facial expressions of the persons talking... Hehehe dont laugh!

 

So the exchange between the offending passenger and the stewardesses is quite clear though in an incomprehensible tongue to me….

 

He sits in his seat and buckles up because we are about to touch down. 

The ladies also hurry to their jump seats and buckle up.

 

Touch down! 

Despite my reservations of the old aeroplane she lands smoothly and we taxi to the disembarking bay.

 

Here is where hell breaks out. The plane is still moving rather fast on the ground along the runway but everyone is up and busy opening the overhead luggage racks totally oblivious of the danger, or the threats and advice from the captain to desist.

 

Its like a country bus that has just arrived at its rural destination. The only thing missing is the live chicken and goats!

 

By the time the plane stops at its designated bay most passengers are up and queuing at the exits to get off.

 

I remain seated. I'm not sure whether my host has arrived to receive me. 

I'm not sure how I'll be treated at immigration or customs so i hold my horses.

I'm anxious.

 

By now the stewardesses have given up and quietly accept their fate that they have no control.

Wise move!

 

I am one of the last to disembark. 

I follow the queue to the arrival lounge. 

Its a large unkempt godown.

Those days the new Aden Abdille Airport had not yet been built.

Just a few years later the Turks built a brand new and beautiful complex airport complete with an Airport Hotel, VIP Lounges and all the necessary facilities....

 

I join the queue for visas. 

I told you i only know 3 words of Somali language so when my turn reaches the officer; he deliberately addresses me in Somali and i read his face and answer in English..... In hind sight i wish i answered him in Kiswahili..... 'hata wewe' so that in case he wished me well then i will have wished him well too and in case he was rude to me...then of course you know the same applies to him.

 

He demands USD50 for the visa.

I pay and he dutifully gives me an official receipt.

Things move surprisingly smoothly..... In no time I'm through with the arrival procedures and out of the lounge and thank God my host is there waiting for me.....

 

OUT OF THE FRYING PAN INTO THE FIRE!!!

 

The project I have come to Mogadishu for is the conversion of an old building (not very old) from its current use as flats into a hospital. In this age of 2010; there is dire need for hospitals in Mogadishu. It will be several  years later that the Turkish will have established hospitals, dispensaries and clinics across the City - but today the need is dire.

MCH - Maternal & Child Health Care is almost non-existent. 

Injuries resulting from the civil war such as shrapnel and artillery wounds remain untreated.

Men without limbs is not a very uncommon sight.

So I think my host's idea is brilliant.

Immediately out of the arrivals lounge; we walk to the parking area. I dont have much luggage so I am not too helpful to the several young boys and men seeking a few pennies by helping passengers porter their luggage. Notwithstanding this; my host, who is known for his magnanimity gives out a USD 10 bill to a responsible looking boy and tells him to divide among his colleagues.

My host jumps into the co-driver seat. The driver says a hearty Assalamu ALeikum to me and then addresses me in Arabic ...  i reply in my broken but good enough arabic. He is a jolly guy.

Just outside the Airport we encounter the first of at least 6 military checkpoints dotted along our route to the project site. 

This one is manned by Ugandan Soldiers. 

They are part of the UN/AU Mission (UNISOM) here in Uganda. 

They ask questions in English and my host dutifully answers. 

They see me seated in the back and ask 'who is this?' I am abit too obviously a foreigner. 

So before my host can say anything i reply - this time in Kiganda - Ogambachi! 

This is the magic word......they bust out laughing. Oh he is a Ugandan .....!?

Now I switch to Kiswahili --- purposely because I know the entire Ugandan Military and Police Force are trained in Kiswahili - and in fact they are all very comfortable with Kiswahili.

More laughter. The ice is broken.

Ah huyo ni wetu - driver please drive on!

 

The next Military Check Point is just 100m from the last one. 

This one is right in the  beginning of town centre.

Manned by two types of uniformed men. One type is obviously soldiers from the army whilst the others look more like heavily armed policemen.

This is going to be long one.

They see me seated at the back seat.

A flurry of questions are asked and replies duly given in Somali.

I can see they are obviously not happy. I get the distinct feeling that they dont trust me and dont like me. I look like an Arab - probably a sympathizer of their opposition.

My host tells me not to worry - but the entire force at the checkpoint is getting agitated.

Then they demand my passport. I dip my hand in the pocket but my host tells me not to ....... I am worried, these guys do look trigger happy. 

They are just young boys drunk either on miraa or dogma - the later being the worse form of drunkenness.

Voices are being raised. We've been held for over 15 minutes.

My host is making frantic calls but finally decides to show my passport. 

Oh no....not another Kenyan.

Now I can make our abit of the conversation. 

Surely this man cannot be a Kenyan - he is either Yemeni or Egyptian or Afghani but not Kenyan ... and having declared so they throw my passport into my hosts face.

Just then a phone call comes through to one of the older military boys ....... who replies in a flurry of Somali.
Things change as dramatically as they had escallated.

We are waved on - but not without some harsh words to my host and the driver.

I am glad I dont understand the language.

The next few checkpoints are not that bad .... we are asked a few questions and waved on.

 

More to come.... Watch this space